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Wutang's Secret Shinto Ride
5.12a,
Sport, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 2.1 from 40
votes
FA: Matt Wendling, 2003
Wyoming
> Ten Sleep Canyon
> French Cattle R…
> Sector Shinto
Access Issue: RAPTOR CLOSURES: MOBY DICK AREA & NO NEW ROUTE DEVELOPMENT
Details
RAPTOR CLOSURE: During recent raptor monitoring, an active raptor nest was discovered, prompting a voluntary closure of the Moby Dick climbing area off Forest System Road 18. The named routes and walls affected are Dough Boy, Queequeg’s Coffin, Cetology Wall and Edge of Starbuck. The area is closed immediately through August 15. The nest site will continue to be monitored through the summer. If you have questions, please contact Bonnie Allison, south zone wildlife biologist, at 307-684-7806 or bonnie.allison@usda.gov.
No new route development is allowed until further notice. On July 19, 2019, the US Forest Service issued a notice that it would no longer allow the installation of new bolts or the creation of new climbing routes after manufactured routes were established, then subsequently removed/altered by climbers. In addition, the bolts/fixed anchors on an estimated 50 climbs at Ten Sleep have been affected in some manner that may or may not make them unsafe to climb. The list of altered routes can be found in a drop down on the main, "Ten Sleep Canyon" homepage. The US Forest Service, Powder River Ranger District, is actively working with the local LCO, the Bighorn Climbers' Coalition and Access Fund to develop a sustainable framework for route standards and a Climbing Management Plan for the canyon's future.
Description
getting off the ground and making the first couple moves is the crux. not a bad idea to stick clip the 1st or 2nd bolt. some good fun cranking on little crimps too bad its really really easy after that. probably helps if your a bit taller.
Location
just right of Macaroni angles left into the anchors of it as well.
Protection
6ish bolts use anchors of Macaroni
[Hide Photo] Face of Wu-Tang's Secret Shinto Ride - Route runs up and left starting in the center of the wall and shares the anchor with the 5.8 just to the left.
[Hide Photo] No more tree covering the route. It's now covering the trail...
Charlotte, NC
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