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Routes in Main Canyon

Drug Test S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Drugs Are Nice S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Golden Egg, The T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Gunks Pump S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Horseshoes and Hand Grenades S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Jesus Liquid S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lunge for Jesus S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Prince of Peace S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Razor Hueco Arete - aka Razor Blades and Whipping Cream S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Weave Your Spell S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Witches Eye aka Witching Hour? S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Witches' Tit S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Woof S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: Bob D'Antonio
Page Views: 1,187 total, 11/month
Shared By: tom selleck on Sep 14, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Description

The route furthest right when facing the wall. Start in a small, right-facing corner up to the bulging wall. Do a cool, powerful move off pockets to a jug. Clip, shake, then undercling, crimp, and highstep past one more bolt to a lone lowering hook. It is slightly more difficult than its neighbor "Weave Your Spell" but much more straightforward IMHO. Quality.

Location

This is the next bolted route down canyon of Razor Hueco Arete.

Protection

4 bolts.

Photos

the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
Nice climb, but moving past the third bolt felt awfully blank and hard for the grade (leaving the hueco feature left of bolt). The remainder is hard but reasonable crimping covered by lichen. The one old open shut anchor that is over the edge is just kind of silly. Oct 17, 2016
William Mondragon  
  5.12b
My favorite route in Witches. May 13, 2012
NEH
  5.12-
NEH  
  5.12-
This is a really fun little route. Well worth doing if you are in Witches Canyon(or the SLV). I'm not sure how to rate this one, it is just one hard boulder problem move (V4-ish?) to solid 11 climbing to the top. If you boulder a lot or are tall, this might feel soft for the grade. May 19, 2011