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Routes in Band M (CLOSED)

3 Wogs T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Butcher Block T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Finally Dunn T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
General Hospital A3
Heavy Weather Sailing T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Hercules S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
If Dogs Run Free T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jungle Work T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Machina Ex Deus T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Malt Therapy T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Over Done T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Standard Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Understatement, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unknown Left of Hercules S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Way Radical T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: Michael Hartrich & Al Rubin Summer, 1973
Page Views: 80 total, 1/month
Shared By: jason seaver on Sep 14, 2008
Admins: Jay Knower, M Sprague, lee hansche, Jeffrey.LeCours, Robert Hall

You & This Route


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CLOSED UNTIL FURTHER NOTICE Details

Description

This is one of the better single pitch jamcracks of its grade in the Mount Washingtom Valley. Continuous hand-jamming up a round edged crack in a big left-facing dihedral. Exit left to a ledge before the top of the cliff, where you can rap off a tree with one rope, or continue to the top and bushwhack right to walk off.

Location

On the right end of the cliff, 50 feet or so right of the route Three Wogs, where the approach "trail" reaches the crag. Three Wogs is identifiable by three spaced bolts in a shallow groove. You can't miss Bandit if you're on the right side of the cliff.

Protection

There are a few pitons but it takes bomber gear the whole way. Rap off a tree on a ledge before topping out, or walk off right.

Photos

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matthew ritter
West Campton, New Hampshire
matthew ritter   West Campton, New Hampshire
A great pitch on great rock. there is a double bolt anchor if you follow the upper low angle hand crack to a small ledge instead of escaping left. Apr 21, 2009
john strand
southern colo
 
john strand   southern colo
 
Agreed, this would be considered a classic on Cathedral (Barber Wall) and would get done a LOT. Al Rubin told me that when they did the F/A,he didn't even know that Band M was there and it seemed real remote. Sep 24, 2008