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Routes in South Rim Routes

Alimony T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Astro Dog T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Black Cloud T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13
Black In Action T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Black Shadow Arete T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Black Snake T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Blackjack T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Burl Girl T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Crystal Vision T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Dark Star T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragging On T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Dragon Rider T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
El Padre T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Event Horizon T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
Falcon Wall T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Flakes, The T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b X
Flapjack T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13
Ground Control to Major Tom T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Last Payment T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Night is Dark and Full of Terrors, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b R
North Shore T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Open Minded T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Pent Up T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b PG13
Quota, The T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Tague Yer Time T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b
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Type: Trad, 2400 ft, 16 pitches, Grade IV
FA: Max Kendall, Robert Warren
Page Views: 1,462 total · 12/month
Shared By: Max Kendall on Sep 12, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description [Edit]

This route was done in September 1988 as a Grade V. The top of the fourth pitch has a nice bivy ledge and there is a better bivy at the top of the twelfth pitch. I have bivied at both spots and done the route in a day rim to rim. The park service did close this route because of the falcons, so check to see if it is open. I have always used the SOFB with raps to approach this We placed one bolt at the top of the fifth pitch for hauling the bag mostly.

Location [Edit]

The route is right next to Bushmeister. Go down th SOFB past crystal vision and South Arete. Third class up to the base near Bushmeister.

Protection [Edit]

Black Canyon rack: 2 sets of cams including wide gear, set of stoppers.

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