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Routes in Central Slab Area

Egyptian Sandfish S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Imaginator, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 375 ft, 3 pitches
FA: Dave Tidwell et al.
Page Views: 3,031 total, 27/month
Shared By: Josh Janes on Sep 11, 2008
Admins: Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Mount Charleston Wilderness Area Details

Description

The Imaginator is a consistant and fun outing up the center of the Imagination Wall.

Begin at the center of the wall near a fairly tall tree. There are three small, short dihedrals here (maybe 40' tall). The leftmost one has a black roof/bulge extending from it's top off to the left. Begin in the rightmost one.

P1: Climb up the dihedral past a few bolts then continue up the face above to a pillar-feature. Bear-hug up this feature past two or three bolts, then through the roof (crux) and belay at an uncomfortable stance underneath another roof. 130', 5.11c.

P2: Skirt the roof to the left then head up to a very obvious wedge-shaped corner/roof feature. Pull around this to the left and establish above with some difficulty. Continue up to a good belay stance. 100', 5.11b.

P3: Climb up off the belay past a bunch of weird iron intrusions. A difficult blank stretch leads to easier climbing and the top of the wall. 120', 5.11a.

Rap the route with a single 70m rope. Make sure your rope is not a hair shorter than 70m -- you can only get down from the 3rd and 1st pitches with rope strech.

Protection

18 draws for the first pitch, 10 for each of the last two pitches.
Trundle Foot  
 
The 2nd pitch has been fixed recently. That bolt at the crux is right in your face on pitch 2, meaning all the moves are protected around that roof. I never took the fall, but I bet it would have been awful before. Aug 18, 2017
Jorge Jordan
  5.11+
Jorge Jordan  
  5.11+
Joe Wysznski got it exactly right. If you can do the rest of the climbing on pitch 1 no problem, then pitch 2 doesn't feel like it deserves the R rating. It's heads up, but so are most of the multi-pitch climbs at Charleston. The real tragedy would be missing out on that 3rd pitch. Overall, phenomenal route. Sep 6, 2015
Guy H.
Fort Collins CO
  5.11c R
Guy H.   Fort Collins CO
  5.11c R
Yep... The second pitch is R rated. Once you pull around the roof you have to do a committing 5.11 move to clip the bolt with bad feet. If you screw up, you will hit the slab below. Too bad the bolt above the roof isn't 2ft lower. The first pitch is amazing, except for the crappy hanging belay. Sep 28, 2014
Joe Wysznski
  5.11c
Joe Wysznski  
  5.11c
Sweet Route!! 1st pitch is the probably the hardest physically but the 2nd pitch crux is way harder mentally. 3rd pitch is really cool with a difficult thin section. Thank you Dave Tidwell for this route! This is definitely a classic, go try it. May 25, 2014
David Balfour
Colorado Springs, CO
David Balfour   Colorado Springs, CO
We rappelled each pitch with a single 70m. Just be careful though, the rope stretch is needed to get to the ground. Also, on pitch 2, I wouldn't give it an R rating, if you can climb the 1st pitch, 2nd isn't any harder; right when you pull that roof and start thinking about the slab below, you'll see a bolt right there in your face you couldn't see until you were there - so don't fret! - have your belayer take out any unnecessary slack and you'll be fine. Jun 25, 2013
Ryan Franz
Boulder, CO
Ryan Franz   Boulder, CO
I remember I got the second lead when I did this back in 2004--I also took a weird fall against that slab. Made it kind of hard to go back up there and try it again, but it does come together. The third pitch is excellent, worth the trickiness of the second pitch! Nov 9, 2010
Jon O'Brien
Nevada
  5.11c R
Jon O'Brien   Nevada
  5.11c R
Anyone finished it? I thought that the first pitch was sick while being very well bolted. What's up with the second pitch? I fell clipping the bolt over the roof and totally decked against the slab! I'd say this route is definately an "R" rating. I don't get it... any beta? Apr 21, 2009
PDF
  5.11c/d R
PDF  
  5.11c/d R
First pitch is amazing!! Mar 1, 2009