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Jeep's Chimney
5.10,
Trad, 100 ft (30 m),
Avg: 3.6 from 39
votes
FA: Jeep Barrett, Steve Owen
N Carolina
> 2. Northern Mou…
> Linville Gorge
> Hawksbill Mtn
> Lower Hawksbill
Access Issue: 2023 seasonal raptor closure (January 15th-August 15th)
Details
fs.usda.gov/detail/nfsnc/ne… Shortoff Mountain South: All routes between and including C.O and Paradigm Shift are closed.
Shortoff Mountain North: All climbing routes, cliff rim, and campsites within the red band marked on the map are closed to entry. No foot traffic or camping above or below the cliff in this section. Contact the USFS for more details: 828 652 2144.
NC Wall/Apricot Buttress/The Camel: On the NC Wall, all routes between and including Tightrope and Bumblebee Buttress are closed. Apricot Buttress and The Camel are closed.
Bynum Bluff: All routes are closed.
Description
Jeep's Chimney climbs the most obvious feature on Lower Hawksbill - the large, acute, slightly left-facing dihedral. It's only a chimney because on how one climbs it - the crack in the back actually ranges from fingers to fists. The newest guidebook rates the pitch 10a; it certainly falls a bit more in the old school rating category.
Climb the corner using stems, jams, creativity, and a few thrutches to a double-bolt belay hidden in the chimney at the top. Don't be afraid, especially near the top of the pitch, to move out from the crack.
Location
In the back of the large, left-facing corner on the right side of Lower Hawksbill. The rap anchors are totally hidden in the top of the chimney - just keep climbing up the chimney, you'll find them.
Protection
A double set of cams from fingers to fist and a set of stoppers.
Portland, Oregon
I just wonder how Jeep lead it on the first ascent, probably with a set of nuts tri-cams and hexes.
5.10b Oct 25, 2010
Chattanooga
Eagle, CO
CHARLOTTE
carrboro, nc