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Routes in Chimney Rock

8th and Main T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Amanecer S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Ankle's Away T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Another Roadside Attraction T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a R
Boardwalk T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Centerpiece T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Coherent Excitation T 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c X
Copperhead 5 T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Crows Nest T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Aunt Jemimah in Heat T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
FIUTT 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
George's Buttress T,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Georges Peach T,S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Jungle Gym T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mistaken Identity T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
New Year's Eve T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Perfect Peter T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Ratline S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Shriveled Penis T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Single Lens Reflex T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Standard Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stonedmasters T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Stoner's Boner T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Straight Arrow T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Stripper T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tomorrow is Today S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
Unstrung Harp T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Venus' Flytrap (Left) T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Venus' Flytrap (Right) T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Veranda T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Yardarm variation to Crows Nest T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 350 ft, 7 pitches, Grade III
FA: Fig and John Steiger ~ 1983 (?)
Page Views: 1,294 total · 11/month
Shared By: Paul Davidson on Sep 9, 2008
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

You & This Route


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Description

NOTE: I believe I have the FA all jacked.
Pretty sure it was Steve and Fig. I'll dig up Steiger's guide and correct this.

Yes, FA was Fig and Steve Grossman - '78
Various pitches were climbed in '77 by John Steiger, Ray Ringle and Don Gallagher

This is the Girdle traverse of Chimney Rock.

It's much too complex to layout here and I don't even remember how many pitches Steve and I did when we repeated it but I do recall it's a stellar route. Best at Chimney.

The thing about a girdle (the climbing kind anyway) is that you're pretty much on the hook for every pitch. Not a lot of difference as a second or lead. In fact, it's really better to be on the lead end since you can set your own pro.

Of the three girdles in the state that I've done, Overlook, Granite Mountain and Chimney, this is probably the shortest but like the others, it's action packed the whole way.

Location

Chimney Rock Girdle traverse.
Start on the left (west) end at George's Buttress and work over past Crow's Nest. It starts up high and continues across at roughly 2/3 height.

Here is Steiger's description:
"For those into girdle traverses, this is a true prize. The route takes in the cruxes of several routes plus a few of its own.

1) Start up George's Buttress. After traversing right under the roof, work right to a belay at the small pillar shown on Topo A, just below the crux of Stoner's Boner.

2) Climb up under the bulge on Centerpiece then move down and right to the break in the SLR dihedral. Continue up until possible to diagonal down and right (5.9) to the apex formed by the dihedrals on Copperhead #5 (sb.)

3) Turn the bulge formed by the apex and traverse right 25 feet (5.9) to the bolt shown on Topo B, just left of Jungle Gym. Mantle down and climb the Standard Route chimney to a belay just right of a pinnacle-like ledge.

4) Cruise up to the roof band creating the crux of the 2nd pitch of Unstrung Harp and traverse right to the Trickie Dickie crux. Reverse the crux and belay on top of the pillar on the Stripper belay.

5) Work over past the Thenedge belay to the Veranda roofs, and turn the right side.

6) From the three bolt hanging stance, traverse right and down to another Roadside Attraction, then up and right to a large belay ledge left of the 8th and Main dihedral.

7 & 8) Finish up the last one and a half pitches of Stonedmasters.

Not sure all the named routes are in the Squeezing guide but if you make it that far, you'll figure out the route.

Protection

Full rack, lots of full length runners for reducing drag.

Photos

JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
"Action packed"...yes... I believe we used some additional expletives during and after safely traversing about 20 years ago. Pretty challenging route finding even with decent knowledge of the routes it traverses. Steiger's description, which actually starts you on George's Buttress, works fine. Glad to see you post it here, Paul. Don't know of many people who have done it and I'd hate to see it slip into obscurity-- really fun adventure! Sep 10, 2008
Paul Davidson
  5.10
Paul Davidson  
  5.10
Well, that makes for 3 ascents.
Who'd you do it with ?

I thought we started far right but 20+ years ago...
who knows.

Yep, the beauty of a girdle is that every pitch (almost every at least) resonates. Not exactly for the beginning leader :-) Sep 12, 2008
JMayhew
Tucson, AZ
JMayhew   Tucson, AZ
Chuck Lipinski, as I recall. I'd like to see some info on the traverses on Granite and the Overlook. Not many around, that I know of -- just Rap Rock, Rockefellow, and one on Table Dome in Mendoza. Maybe a good topic for the Forum to see how many are in AZ ?? Sep 19, 2008
Paul Davidson
  5.10
Paul Davidson  
  5.10
Overlook girdle is known as the Gridle.
There's some info about it on the Overlook page.

As you know, writing a route description to a girdle is a bit difficult, especially 20 years later.

As for Gnt Mnt, I'll try to post something up there.
I gave Waugh a route description to it once when he was doing his guide book upgrade because it involved some really wild climbing up the Blue Moon corner and over to the Sorcerer ledge. But he didn't think a 10/12 pitch 11 route was worth of the guidebook or else that no one would be very interested in it.

Post up the ones on Rap and Rockfellow. Familiar with the one Rap but curious where others have gone. Didn't know about anything on Rockfellow Dome. Sep 22, 2008
Ethan S.  
 
Gave this thing a go yesterday afternoon. Definitely on the sharp end no matter what you are doing! Had to climb up at Stripper due to the sunset. It is definitely a challenging exercise: route-finding and climbing when the passageway may be a up, down, or directly sideways. Jun 24, 2015
Ethan S.  
 
As the leader attempted to protect a funky downclimb and traverse with poor pro he made sure to encourage me: "Hey man, if this nut breaks, I'll buy you a new one." As a note, strangely, when I took a pendulum on the nut I didn't find myself worrying about the potential financial burden. Jun 24, 2015
Dj telle
Tucson, AZ
 
Dj telle   Tucson, AZ
 
great sideways adventure! ^ haha Jun 25, 2015
Paul Davidson
  5.10
Paul Davidson  
  5.10
Good stuff Ethan....
A Girdle will certainly let you know if it's a partner you really want to be climbing with ;-)

Nice to see this route getting traffic. Fig will be proud Jul 8, 2015

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