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Routes in South Face

3rd Rail, The T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Aging Fruits T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c R
Bears in Heat T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Bladerunner T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blood, Sweat, and Smears T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blownout T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blownout Direct T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Bluebird T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Borderline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Cloud Nine T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Couchmaster T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Crazy Horse T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Cruisin' T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dod's Jam P1 T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excalibur T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Fall Guy S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Fear of Flying T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Dutchman T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Flying Swallow T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b PG13
Free For All, Direct T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Free for All T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Free for Some T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Fresh Squeeze T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Icy Treats T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jensen's ridge T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Jill's Thrill T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Left Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Link-up: Free for All/Dod's Jam/Dastardly Crack T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Little Wing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Local Access Only T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Warriors T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a R
Norseman, The S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Old Warriors Never Die S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b PG13
Pipeline T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reasonable Richard T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rhythm Method S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Right Gull T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rise Up T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Rock Police T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Seagull T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Sky Fishermen (free variation of Grunge Book) T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c PG13
South East Corner T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Spring Fever T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Stone Rodeo S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sufficiently Breathless T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tenacee Stemming T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Wild Turkeys T 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c R
Windsurfer T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Windwalker T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Winter Delight T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Young Warriors T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Trad, 400 ft, 4 pitches
FA: Buncha different folks in different years
Page Views: 5,563 total, 50/month
Shared By: andyf on Sep 9, 2008
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Nate Ball, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Seasonal Raptor Closure Details

Description

This is a great link-up of classic (mostly) hand cracks that takes a direct line up the South Face, ending at the hiker's trail for an easy descent.

P1, Free for All (5.8 or 5.9): Start at a small detached pillar, climbing either the left or right sides. The left side is harder (given .10a in Portland Rock Climbs); if climbing it, bring a couple of slings to girth-hitch constrictions up high. From the pillar top, a seemingly endless exposed steep hand crack finally leads to a ledge. Climb up and slightly right past the ledge to a semi-hanging belay tucked deep inside a corner (rap hangers on right-hand wall). 150' pitch.

P2, Dod's Jam (5.10b): Lieback & stem your way up an off-width corner that's actually quite fun, not awkward. The crack narrows often enough to get good pro without having to lug any big pieces. From the top of the corner, monkey past a tree, then tackle an exquisite thin hands crack (.10b) splitting a steep, exposed face below the spacious Big Ledge.

P3, Dastardly Crack (5.9): Step left from Big Ledge into a deep right-facing corner. It's classic hands and stemming pretty much the whole way to the top, with the crux coming where the crack bulges about halfway up. Belay at rap hangers.

P4: Climb more or less straight up from the belay, then wander left up steps and into a corner system that ends right next to a switchback on the hiker's trail. This pitch is brushy, mossy, and dirty in places, but it's kinda fun in a perverse alpine sort of way.

Descent: Hike down the hiker's trail, or skip the last pitch and rap from the top of Dastardly Crack (double ropes needed?).

Location

Toward the far left end of the South Face, past the Third Tunnel. Free For All starts up a small detached pillar just right of Free for Some and Windsurfer.

Protection

Gear to 4". Nothing tiny needed.
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
I generally do FFA up to the tree on a 60m. It really eats nuts so I use two sets of HB/DMM Alloy Offsets along with a #11 WC Rock and #2, 5, 6 & 7 metolius cams. For Dods above the tree I add a second #6 and a #8 metolius cam and use a bunch of it all on Dastardly which is usually tiring by the time I get up there. Still, you're not going to go wrong bringing doubles as Nathan says.

"Bryans: Joe, i love you, but your advice is pretty specific to nuts like you who have this wired and can lead it with just 2 nuts on your rack.

Hmm. I led it that way the first time I did it so it isn't a matter of having it wired. More like I just suck so bad at offwidths I never thought to bring anything big, plus I stem and layback the entire thing and never do a jam or ever assume an OW posture at any time.

In the one picture where I'm leading with Andy you can see the first nut placement I do 1/3 up in the picture, the second is back in the crack right where I'm stemmed in the picture by the white-edged flake at 2/3s of the way up. Both are placed from solid no-hands stems. Between the series of beautiful stems most of the way up the OW there's really only two laybacks of 'serious' climbing (the start and between the two nut placements) each from and to good stem rests.

How, tongue-in-cheek, did Opdyke always characterize the OW: "the hardest 5.7 at Beacon" (if you don't use all the available stems). Certainly can't hurt to bring a big cam or two, though.

"Max Tepfer: Also, why on earth is the anchor at the base of this pitch (P2) at a hanging stance 2 meters above a huge ledge? It makes absolutely no sense..."

The anchor up on the tree isn't in a hanging stance belay anchor, the belay anchor is built on that ledge below - the anchor at the tree is a rap anchor that was always there, but as a huge bundle of tat on the tree. At Opdycke's request he and I moved it down to the ledge (where it was originally in days of old as can be seen by the hammered old bolt at the ledge), but I removed it back up to behind the tree after objections were raised. The slings were replaced on the tree anchor in fall 2016. Maybe it should be revisited by the new crew. Oct 16, 2017
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10c
My recommendation is to bring doubles in cams from BD #.5-4 plus smaller stuff. A #5 could be substituted for one of the #4's, and would be easier for walking up the OW. I placed nearly my entire rack on Free For All as well as the "2nd" and "3rd" pitches of Dod's which I combined. This is the best way to do it. Placed all of my cams from #.75-3 on Dastardly and still ran it out quite a bit at the top. Route can be easily rapped with a 70m, or follow Max's advice above.

Admittedly, my placements are generally 5'-10' apart, so I tend to place ~17 pieces on a 120' route. Jul 22, 2017
Micah Klesick
Vancouver, WA
  5.10c
Micah Klesick   Vancouver, WA  
  5.10c
Did this for the first time today. AWESOME Linkup. The direct pillar start is only 5.9 IMO. Fun first pitch, 2nd pitch is actually rated 5.10c in the guidebook, and certainly warrants it. Tough size for me! 3rd pitch is tough, but hard 5.9 is fair. Well worth doing, clean, and fun! Aug 3, 2016
Daniel Bookless
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Daniel Bookless   Portland, OR
  5.10c
I know I may use this term too nonchalantly, but Id say this route is worthy of "classic" status. The crux pitch (Dods jam) is airy, exciting and involves some really fun and strenuous movement all with bomb proof gear and incredible scenery. Also it's road side and a simple walk off. Jul 23, 2016
BrianWilson
Brush Prairie, Washington
  5.10c
BrianWilson   Brush Prairie, Washington
  5.10c
Led to the Perch in one pitch (epic). Used the first nut placement in the offwidth (bomber), finished with a #4. Thrutched and french freed after Dan did the crux pitch. The game was not over with the first section of Dastardly (Whew!). Led up past the Windtalker anchor through the brush (haha). Great tough line! Jul 23, 2016
christoph benells   tahoma
There is a very large, very loose block at the top belay on Free For All.

it is about 4 x 3 x 3 feet and wobbles a couple inches with a slight tap of your foot. The ledge that this block sits on is slanted at about 45 degrees.

It is the block the that makes up the climber's right side of the ledge that you stand on. You stand on this block at the belay. Jul 21, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10c
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10c
Hey Jon or Micah... shouldn't this route be broken up into its separate parts? Most of the comments could be partitioned into Dastardly or Dod's. The descriptions of both could be upgraded from their current format. Oct 10, 2015
David J. Thompson
Hood River
  5.10c
David J. Thompson   Hood River
  5.10c
Max, don't use the hanging stance! I thought Dastardly 5.9. I hauled not only a #4, but a #5 and happily used both on P2. Oct 23, 2014
Max Tepfer
Bend, OR
Max Tepfer   Bend, OR
As to the gear discussion above: I found 1 #4 for to be perfect for walking and back protecting on the P2 OW. Also, why on earth is the anchor at the base of this pitch (P2) at a hanging stance 2 meters above a huge ledge? It makes absolutely no sense...

Lastly, we got off in 3 single rope raps with a 60 and no shenanigans. To do this it was super helpful to forgo the hanging stance mentioned above and rap 2 meters lower/climber's left to the bolts with the tat/rings at the detached pillar/ledge. The rope reached from here. Barely. (don't tie knots) Oct 9, 2014
bryans
5.10c
bryans  
5.10c
We did this line yesterday. I brought 2 4 inch cams for the offwidth on Dod's. I could see the nut placements Joseph talks about. But my god, who wouldn't just want to walk a couple big cams with them for the second half of the pitch instead of sketching and fussing about with their arm 3 feet back in the crack? The extra weight of the cams is pretty trivial given this pitch is vertical, not overhanging. Joe, i love you, but your advice is pretty specific to nuts like you who have this wired and can lead it with just 2 nuts on your rack. (Also Dastardly, which I always love, would be 10a whether it was at Smith Rock's Lower Gorge, Joshua Tree, Paradise Forks, Broughton, etc. Or just call it 9plus?) Sep 21, 2012
Healyje
PDX
Healyje   PDX
I suppose you could funk around with wide pro, but it really isn't necessary.

I lead the p2 offwidth all the time with just two large stoppers, each placed in an utterly bomb slot - one at 1/3 and the other at 2/3s of the way up the offwidth. Both can be placed from solid, stemmed stances.

Both placements are classic and couldn't be more solid; they are however back a ways in the crack (but obvious if you are looking) so each needs an extended trad draw. I use an HB Alloy offset #11 for the first slot and a Wild Country Rock #11 (green) for the second. Nov 30, 2011
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.10c
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.10c
I agree with Sweagan on the ratings comments. As for the last 'pitch', you can combine it with Dastardly crack if you have a 70m, but make sure you save some wider gear (3-4") for the last bit to the hiker's trail. The section above the anchor for Dastardly Crack is not to be taken lightly. Aug 8, 2011
GhaMby Eagan
Heaven
  5.10c
GhaMby Eagan   Heaven
  5.10c
We dragged a 4 & 5 and I appreciated not having to mess with the little funky pieces you would need.

Dodd's is solid 10c, despite all these tough guy sandbagger's on here, and Dastardly Crack is 10a! Even with these ratings you'll feel like you're working for the grade! Aug 8, 2011
Leading the 2nd pitch of Dods Jam it says here you don't need any big pieces, but that is inaccurate. You can feather in some small stuff in the back of the crack but its questionable. Much better to just bring a #4 and #5 for bomber placements in the offwidth section and run it out IMO, then a bunch of crappy small gear. Apr 2, 2011
The Grit
PDX
The Grit   PDX
With a 60m rope and about 20 ft. of simu climbing you can reach the trail in one pitch totally forgoing a fourth pitch. Its a good way to go, especially if you like chos and P.O. I would recommend rapping instead. Shouldn't need two ropes. Sep 17, 2008