Avg: 3.7 from 51 votes
|Type:||Trad, 280 ft (85 m), 3 pitches, Grade II|
|FA:||Buncha different folks in different years|
|Page Views:||7,435 total · 51/month|
|Shared By:||andyf on Sep 9, 2008|
|Admins:||Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters|
The east face is closed to climbing year-round due to possible sensitive/endangered plant species.
See Closure section below for more details.
The hiker's trail is closed, literally blocked by a huge metal gate. Climbers must rappel from Grassy Ledges. Do not top out Young Warriors or SE Corner! Also consider not climbing Jill's Thrill as this will be the primary rappel line from Grassy Ledges.
If climbing Young Warriors, stop at P2 and rappel down the route with a 70m rope or traverse left to join SE Corner. For SE Corner, stop at Grass Ledges after P4. Rappel Jill's Thrill (3 raps with a 60m, 2 raps with a 70m, knot your ends) to Snag Ledge and then one more rappel to the ground.
Please understand that, with the trail closed, the most popular routes will get congested with two-way traffic. If you are a novice multi-pitch climber, strongly reconsider climbing on the South Face this season, as the route-finding is complex, and slow groups will create potentially dangerous situations for others.
The West Face is a fine alternative for those looking for a multi-pitch outing without the complexities and safety concerns presented by the South Face.
Dod's Jam (5.10b): Lieback & stem your way up an off-width corner that's actually quite fun, not awkward. From the top of the corner, monkey past a tree with some slings, then tackle an exquisite thin hands crack (.10b) splitting a steep, exposed face below the spacious Big Ledge.
Dastardly Crack (5.9): Step left from Big Ledge into a deep right-facing corner. It's classic hands and stemming pretty much the whole way to the top, with the crux coming where the crack bulges about halfway up. Finish on a nice ledge with rap hangers. Rappel from here with two ropes or a single 70m, or...
Get ready for some adventure. Climb more or less straight up from the belay, then wander left up steps and into a corner system that ends right next to a switchback on the hiker's trail. This pitch is brushy, mossy, and dirty in places, but it's kinda fun in a perverse alpine sort of way.