Type: Trad, 280 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: Buncha different folks in different years
Page Views: 6,458 total · 49/month
Shared By: andyf on Sep 9, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Seasonal Peregrine Falcon Closure Details

Description

Usually begun with Free For All, this link-up of classic (mostly) hand cracks takes a direct line up the South Face, ending at the hiker's trail for an easy descent.

Dod's Jam (5.10b): Lieback & stem your way up an off-width corner that's actually quite fun, not awkward. From the top of the corner, monkey past a tree with some slings, then tackle an exquisite thin hands crack (.10b) splitting a steep, exposed face below the spacious Big Ledge.

Dastardly Crack (5.9): Step left from Big Ledge into a deep right-facing corner. It's classic hands and stemming pretty much the whole way to the top, with the crux coming where the crack bulges about halfway up. Finish on a nice ledge with rap hangers. Rappel from here with two ropes or a single 70m, or...

Get ready for some adventure. Climb more or less straight up from the belay, then wander left up steps and into a corner system that ends right next to a switchback on the hiker's trail. This pitch is brushy, mossy, and dirty in places, but it's kinda fun in a perverse alpine sort of way.

Location

Toward the far left end of the South Face, past the Third Tunnel. Free For All starts up a small detached pillar just right of Free for Some and Windsurfer.

Protection

Gear to 4", doubles from 0.75-4". Nothing tiny needed.

Photos