Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Spiderman Variation

5.6, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 46 votes
FA: unknown
Oregon > Central Oregon > Smith Rock > (p) Spiderman Buttress
Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Nesting Closures Details

Description

This is a really fun climb, done Trad as a single pitch, or as the start to Spiderman. There's really no crux to speak of (on this single pitch), just sustained, fun, climbing. Be very careful if lowering off, as a 60 M rope might not quite make it, and downclimbing the last few feet might be required.

Location

Climb the obvious Open Book immediately to the left of Squashed Spider. Lower off the chains at the belay station for Spiderman, or finish on Spiderman. (A 60 meter rope is needed, and even so, be careful when lowering, it's stretched to the limit)

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Stems, cracks, even some ledges, what more could you want?
[Hide Photo] Stems, cracks, even some ledges, what more could you want?
Joe on his way up.
[Hide Photo] Joe on his way up.
Spiderman Variation
[Hide Photo] Spiderman Variation
Looking down Spiderman Variation, from the belay station.
[Hide Photo] Looking down Spiderman Variation, from the belay station.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
[Hide Comment] This is a good first trad lead as pro is abundant and the angle is such that you can place gear with both hands in many spots. Sep 25, 2008
Obi
Portland, OR
[Hide Comment] Some thoughtful moves at the top to keep things interesting on this route May 29, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
[Hide Comment] A 60m is more than enough to lower from the first set of anchors (where this Variation meets Spiderman). If you continue up from there to the 2nd anchor (top of Spiderman pitch 2) the best descent option with a 60m rope is to rappel down the Spiderman side; this works (without a lot to spare) because the ground on that side is higher than on the Variation side. If you continue from the 2nd anchor to the top, the fastest & easiest descent is to walk-off to climber's right. Jul 25, 2017