Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 2,008 total · 16/month
Shared By: EugeneGuy on Sep 8, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


35 Opinions

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Description

This is a really fun climb, done Trad as a single pitch, or as the start to Spiderman. There's really no crux to speak of (on this single pitch), just sustained, fun, climbing. Be very careful if lowering off, as a 60 M rope might not quite make it, and downclimbing the last few feet might be required.

Location

Climb the obvious Open Book immediately to the left of Squashed Spider. Lower off the chains at the belay station for Spiderman, or finish on Spiderman. (A 60 meter rope is needed, and even so, be careful when lowering, it's stretched to the limit)

Protection

Standard Rack

Photos

Karsten Duncan
Sacramento, CA
Karsten Duncan   Sacramento, CA
This is a good first trad lead as pro is abundant and the angle is such that you can place gear with both hands in many spots. Sep 25, 2008
Obi
Portland, OR
Obi   Portland, OR
Some thoughtful moves at the top to keep things interesting on this route May 29, 2017
Carl Schaefer
Boulder, CO
Carl Schaefer   Boulder, CO
A 60m is more than enough to lower from the first set of anchors (where this Variation meets Spiderman). If you continue up from there to the 2nd anchor (top of Spiderman pitch 2) the best descent option with a 60m rope is to rappel down the Spiderman side; this works (without a lot to spare) because the ground on that side is higher than on the Variation side. If you continue from the 2nd anchor to the top, the fastest & easiest descent is to walk-off to climber's right. Jul 25, 2017