Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Full Nelson

5.9, Sport, 55 ft (17 m),  Avg: 1.8 from 12 votes
FA: Perin Blanchard
Utah > Wasatch Range > Southern Wasatch > Rock Canyon > Solitary Misdemeanors

Description

Start to the left of a small, incut seat and move to the first bolt on small edges (some have thought that getting to the first bolt was kind of tricky).

Continue up alongside a small, right-facing corner to the roof. Clip the fourth bolt and step up. The crux is getting past the next bit with tiny edges and slopey, insecure holds, but it is well-protected. Continue up to the anchors.

Location

The right of the two bolted routes.

Protection

6 bolts, double-ring anchors.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Perin Blanchard on <em>Full Nelson</em>.<br> <br> Photo by John Ross.
[Hide Photo] Perin Blanchard on Full Nelson. Photo by John Ross.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Perin Blanchard
Orem, UT
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Full Nelson youtube.com/watch?v=rX7wtNO… Sep 7, 2008
Kip H
Farmington, utah
  5.10a
[Hide Comment] Try this climb without going into the more obvious bigger holds to the right thru the first 2 bolts and it'll be a tougher endeavor. Get to the roof then to a more technical crux on crimpers then you're home free. Quality route. Sep 9, 2008
Christian "crisco" Burrell
PG, Utah
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Lots of good looking rails turn into ok slopers. Mostly a smearing workout. The rock is something though, it almost makes you want to dig down and see what else is under the dirt.
B.T.W.: props on the nifty trail and landing work. I know from experience that it is a big job. Hopefully nobody comes along and destroys it. YOU ALL KNOW WHO YOU ARE OUT THERE! Sep 12, 2008
Tristan Higbee
Pocatello, ID
  5.9
[Hide Comment] I took my time on this route. The climbing makes you think, but I didn't particularly like the moves. Pretty sweet rock, though. Worth doing. Sep 13, 2008
Jeff Jones
Elk Ridge, UT
 
[Hide Comment] I did this a little while ago with Kip, Lee, John, and Perin. I thought it was very fun. A little thin and slabby at the bottom (just enough to make you think) with some neat moves toward the top. I thought it was easier than the left route. Oct 24, 2008
William Mackintosh
 
[Hide Comment] All four of us that climbed both routes agreed that the left route felt harder than this one. May 5, 2012