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Routes in The Red Light District

Autocratic for the People S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Cold Shoulder S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Cornered Market T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Dutch Maiden S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Jacob's Ladder S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Mammplitude S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Mrs. Treated S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
On the Side T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
One Hand in my Pocket and the Other on a Stout S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Pocket Pool S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Proposition One S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Size Matters S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Timeless Christian Values S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Turnin' Tricks S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown In Red Light District S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Vapor Lock S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Young and the Restless, The S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Paul Sloan - 1992
Page Views: 1,620 total, 14/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Sep 6, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


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Description

Dutch Maiden packs a lot of pump into a short route, saving up a final crux for the last move to the anchors.

Climb crimpy holds and occasional positive horizontals past three bolts to the top.

Location

Red Light District; starts on a ledge above the trail about 10' left of Mammplitude.

Protection

Three bolts; bolted anchors.

Photos

Someone replaced the missing 3rd hanger with the 1st hanger. You climb half the route before the first clip now 5 days ago
As of 10/18/2016, the third bolt on Dutch Maiden is still missing a hanger. Oct 18, 2016
highneed  
 
Bring a sliding nut or removable hanger for the third bolt, the bolt and nut are there but the hanger is missing as of 5/14/16 May 15, 2016
Austin Eddy
Knoxville, TN
Austin Eddy   Knoxville, TN
This route is missing the 3rd bolt. If you were to fall near the anchors you would deck out. Jul 1, 2013
Ross Beard
Colorado Springs
  5.10b
Ross Beard   Colorado Springs
  5.10b
I agree with Marlin the route directly to the right while thin at the bottom gets progressively better holds to the top while Dutch Maiden at the top while fighting the pump gets extremely thin. Dutch Maiden 10b Mammplitude 10a? May 15, 2012
Marlin Thorman
Spokane, WA
  5.10b
Marlin Thorman   Spokane, WA
  5.10b
I was told that a hold broke off near the top making this climb around the 10b range. Comparing Dutch Maiden to Mammplitude (just right of it) the ratings should be reversed in my opinion.

Rothman - I always go right at the last bolt to reach the anchors. Apr 23, 2012
Dylan Demyanek
Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Dylan Demyanek   Fort Collins, CO
  5.10a
Did this one in June, lots of fun! The crux for me was the last move to the chains, but I didn't see the jug hold above the anchors either. There is a cool expansion move on crimpy holds between the second and third bolts (or 3rd and 4th?). Either way, cool route. Aug 15, 2011
Gotta smear boys! Jan 24, 2011
Andrew R.
Linden, VA
  5.10b
Andrew R.   Linden, VA
  5.10b
I wondered if a hold hadnt broken between the third bolt and the anchors (or maybe it was 2nd to third bolt). Anybody have beta on the moves to the anchors? Also wasnt sure which way to go...Left or Right to get to the final pocket, as the face straight up, was straight up bald. Didnt think the route wasnt very natural based on the bolt placement. I too regularly climb 10s and this was no 10a. 10b minimum. Couple of fun moves at the bottom, but dont see why this is a highly rated route... at least under the current conditions. Dec 21, 2010
willeslinger
Golden, Colorado
5.10b/c
willeslinger   Golden, Colorado
5.10b/c
Does anyone know if a hold has been knocked off anywhere on the route? The space between the fist and second bolt is incredibly bare for a the grade, I climb typically climb 5.10 and I couldn't make it up to the second bolt without a few nasty whippers.

But, it could just be that the climbing isn't suited to my personal strengths on the rock, but man, it was stiff for the grade. Aug 30, 2010