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Routes in Gemstone West

Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 805 total, 7/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Sep 6, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

P1: The "shoot" is a left facing dihedral with a large crack in it. Continue up the shoot past the crux perhaps using a variety of techniques until on easy terrain on a jigsaw-puzzle face (ladders). End on a large ledge with huge boulders and a little vegetation, after about 35 meters from the base of the climb.

P2: The easy second pitch trends up and left between a cactus and the rock before going up cracks (5.4?) at the right edge of a northerly face; another great option is to take the obvious right-trending crack on the ~westerly face until it ends, then up (5.6?) to a bolt and continue up.

The rating of 5.9 came from Barry and Rita Loucks' guide although that guide also lists Gemstone as 5.9.

For a fourth class walk-off descent, see comment at the bottom of a marked-up version of a photo from Monomaniac on the Gemstone West page.

Location

The start is below a 'shoot' roughly 15 feet to climber's left of the aid boulder. See a marked up version of Monomaniac's photo on the Gemstone West page.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3 inches. First pitch has a crack which widens in the mid-section to roughly 4 to 6 inches - an old style #5 DB C4 fits well in about a two foot section. However, there are adequate smaller placements along the way.

A #5 DB C4 is mentioned above but is overkill. If you really want to sew up the big part of the crack, it can be done with a 4 inch piece or two.

The first and second pitch can be combined with a 60 meter rope, so long as the belayer is close to the start and so long as rope-stretch at the crux is not an issue for the second.

Photos

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