All Locations > New Mexico > Albuquerque Area… > Sandia Mountains > La Cueva Canyon,… > Gemstone West
Shoots & Ladders
Avg: 2.3 from 9 votes
Routes in Gemstone West
|Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c|
|Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13|
|Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b|
|Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R|
|Type:||Trad, Alpine, 2 pitches|
|Page Views:||805 total, 7/month|
|Shared By:||Bill Lawry on Sep 6, 2008|
|Admins:||Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
DescriptionP1: The "shoot" is a left facing dihedral with a large crack in it. Continue up the shoot past the crux perhaps using a variety of techniques until on easy terrain on a jigsaw-puzzle face (ladders). End on a large ledge with huge boulders and a little vegetation, after about 35 meters from the base of the climb.
P2: The easy second pitch trends up and left between a cactus and the rock before going up cracks (5.4?) at the right edge of a northerly face; another great option is to take the obvious right-trending crack on the ~westerly face until it ends, then up (5.6?) to a bolt and continue up.
The rating of 5.9 came from Barry and Rita Loucks' guide although that guide also lists Gemstone as 5.9.
For a fourth class walk-off descent, see comment at the bottom of a marked-up version of a photo from Monomaniac on the Gemstone West page.
LocationThe start is below a 'shoot' roughly 15 feet to climber's left of the aid boulder. See a marked up version of Monomaniac's photo on the Gemstone West page.
ProtectionStandard rack up to 3 inches. First pitch has a crack which widens in the mid-section to roughly 4 to 6 inches - an old style #5 DB C4 fits well in about a two foot section. However, there are adequate smaller placements along the way.
A #5 DB C4 is mentioned above but is overkill. If you really want to sew up the big part of the crack, it can be done with a 4 inch piece or two.
The first and second pitch can be combined with a 60 meter rope, so long as the belayer is close to the start and so long as rope-stretch at the crux is not an issue for the second.
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