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Pirate's Cove

5.9+, Trad, 550 ft, 4 pitches, Grade II,  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Wayne Roy and Shannon Stegg 2007
North Carolina > Laurel Knob

Description

P1: First pitch of Groover. 5.7, 120'

P2: Climb left and up a shallow water groove/track on thin features, over bolts, to a bolted belay. 5.9, 180'

P2: Climb straight up water groove past three bolts and no additional pro. 5.7, 120'

P3: Move left off the belay, passing a couple bolts into Arrested Development's groove, up this, past gear, to anchors out right. 5.9, 120'

P4: Slab right into the continuation of the same water groove from P2. Climb directly to the top passing four bolts and as many small gear placements to a bolted belay 5.8-, 200'

Location

Far left on the main face. Start as for Groover or Arrested Development.

Protection

Stopers, smaller tricams, Single set of cams through 2.5"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The look down half way up P4 to the belay at the top of P3 and beyond...
[Hide Photo] The look down half way up P4 to the belay at the top of P3 and beyond...
Stinson following the P3 water groove...crux pitch.
[Hide Photo] Stinson following the P3 water groove...crux pitch.
P2; P3 goes up, left, then right; P4 continues up the grrove way up and to the top.
[Hide Photo] P2; P3 goes up, left, then right; P4 continues up the grrove way up and to the top.
Stinson following P2
[Hide Photo] Stinson following P2
My brother following the easyish yet engaging P2 of Pirate's Cove.
[Hide Photo] My brother following the easyish yet engaging P2 of Pirate's Cove.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

[Hide Comment] Pitch one has been reestablished. Climb the first pitch of groover. From tree follow the gear left to the groove and the first bolt, continue to A 2 bolt anchor. Sep 17, 2009
Adam Beck
Nashville, TN
 
[Hide Comment] I did this route in June 2009. The middle bolt (there are only 3) on P2 had been chopped. This is at least the third time it's been chopped/replaced. The missing bolt creates a 60 foot runout on 5.7 slab.

Look up from the tree ledge and see if the bolt is there before you commit to the route. Jan 21, 2010
Jeff Mekolites
ATL GA
  5.9+ PG13
[Hide Comment] Great Route. A little more sustained climbing at or near the grade compared to say Groover.

Appears all bolts are intact. To approach - climb Groover's first pitch. P1 climb flake/face on the left from the tree, past and overlap, then step into the watergroove. Continue a full rope length past a few bolts to a bolted belay, 5.9, 200 ft. P2 climb a long watergroove past 3 bolts to a bolted belay, 5.7, 125 ft. P3 step down and left from the belay, looking for a small foot on the bulge left of you. Balance over past two bolts to a groove, continue to a tree ledge and rap station, 5.9+, 125 ft. P4 climb the watergroove on the right of the belay, past bolts and gear to a rap station, 5.8, 200 ft. Jun 13, 2011