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Routes in Gemstone West

Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: Gary Hicks and Arron O'Brian, 18 Sept 1977
Page Views: 245 total · 2/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Sep 6, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Origin of the Name & Rating

The old Loucks Guide refers to this route as "Christian Crack" but Gary indicated the correct name is "Christian Rock."

Per Gary Lee Hicks, I led a buddy, from our church, up the 1st pitch of Gemstone and then led this variation to Gemstone as he had never climbed before. Arron and I were both new Christians and primarily were listening to Christian Rock n Roll; hence the name. The rating I gave it that day was 5.7+ .... For the safety of others, this climb should be given a 5.7 rating, not ... 5.6.

There is a rating of 5.6 in Barry and Rita Loucks' guide. I also felt like the crux was more like 5.7, albeit only a couple moves.

Description

Start from the top of Flail Out or the top of the 1st pitch of Gemstone. Follow a left facing dihedral to where it's crack pinches down (crux) just below a large chockstone. Work up past the chockstone to bolted anchors shared with Gemstone route.

Double rope rap with 60 meter ropes gets you to the ground. Two raps with a single 60 meter rope works well when using a huge intermdiate horn right at the tail end of the rope strands. The horn is slung with a loop of rope inside dull-green tubular webbing.

Location

Christian Rock is in a left facing dihedral just west (right) of the 2nd pitch of Gemstone. See a marked-up version of a photo from Monomaniac on the Gemstone West page.

Protection

Standard rack.

Photos

Having recently read from an old notebook a list of climbs from the late 1970-s I came across the name of my partner for "Christian Rock". On September 18th, 1977 I led a buddy, from our church, up the 1st pitch of Gemstone and then led this variation to Gemstone as he had never climbed before. His name is Arron O'Brian. The rating I gave it that day was 5.7+ and since then I have both roped climbed it and free soloed it many times. Climbing numbers for ratings have changed over the years and seem to me to have become "compressed". Soloing gives another perspective on which moves are actually the hardest moves of a climb. Other free solos in the area which I have done... the 'original' Gemstone and Emerald City... each have their crux moves located well away from the crux moves while being roped up. Christian Rock actually has its crux moves... roped or unroped,,, in the same area, but unroped it becomes painfully clear how difficult this climb really is. For the safety of others, this climb should be given a 5.7 rating,,, not the current 5.6.
Arron and I were both new Christians and primarily were listening to Christian Rock n Roll; hence the name. Aug 18, 2016
Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
Very glad to hear some of the history, Gary Hicks. You are of course more than welcome to comment on the history to others of your climbs here. I've often wondered some about them. Cheers! Jun 8, 2015
To Whom it may concern,,,

"Christian Crack" was first done by me and a Christian friend of mine approx the same time Bob Dylan came out w his album, "SLOW TRAIN COMING",,, so I would hope that I would know the Original name to this climb is CHRISTIAN ROCK .
I have since free soloed it approx a dozen times and can state it is at least 5.7 .

PEACE and LOVE to ALL,,, from the "WolfMan", Gary Hicks Jun 7, 2015