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Routes in Gemstone West

Broken Ladders T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Christian Rock T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fin Left, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Flail Out T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Gemstone T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Pair of 4s T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c PG13
Seamingly Hard T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Shoots & Ladders T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sinsemilla Shake - P3 (a.k.a. Green Snake - P2) T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Type: Trad, Alpine
FA: Gary Hicks and Sylvie Walker on May 4th, 1985
Page Views: 126 total, 1/month
Shared By: Bill Lawry on Sep 6, 2008 with updates
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

Starting beneath the snout of rock, navigate to the left side and up over loose plates. The line continues up the obvious crack in solid granite. About 3/4 of the way up is a 2 or 3 inch chockstone after which the difficulty of the climbing eases. Continue to a gear belay near the top of the first pitch of Gemstone. From there, we continued up the route Christian Rock.

The old Loucks' guide rates both this route and Gemstone as 5.9. This route is more sustained than P2 of Gemstone.

Location

Hike to climber's left past the overhanging aid boulder and continue about 3/4 of the way to Gemstone route. See a marked up version of Monomaniac's photo on the Gemstone West page.

Protection

Standard rack up to 3+ inches. I used a fairly open BD C4 #3 just below the chockstone; a 3.5 would probably have been perfect. Not far below that I used a BD C4 #4.

Photos

Bill Lawry
New Mexico
 
Bill Lawry   New Mexico
 
Gary, I like the story. It wouldn't take much of a nudge from you for this route to be renamed "Sylvie in Her Tennies." I doubt anyone would object. Jul 10, 2015
This was Sylvie's very first rock climb and she had only her tennis shoes to climb with! She had never belayed so I brought her to what I thought was going to be a pretty easy climb for her as I considered Gemstone too tough for a beginner.
As I led up past the "snout"... I had to clean a lot of material out of the crack. With no hangs I managed to push on through and set a belay. Sylvie followed in her tennies and only had to hang on the rope a couple of times ( and maybe a little hand over hand up the rope in a place or two ). She was a natural climber!!!
Not long after this she would follow me up The Happy Gnome and Aviary Ort ...
Eventually she and I did a "no hands" ascent of Grack Crack on Glacier Point Apron .
I had always just called this climb, "Sylvie in Her Tennies" and I have done it more than once. "Flail Out" will suffice. Jul 10, 2015