Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade II
FA: George Lowe and Jock Glidden, 1972
Page Views: 4,669 total · 29/month
Shared By: Tyler King on Sep 5, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Giggles is the BWC Classic. Fun climbing with a variety of techniques. True handjams can be useful but are not necessary. There are a ton of cracks all going the same direction (UP), therfore, good routefinding skills are necessary.

  • P1-5.5: Climb a short pitch through a variety of flaring cracks to a small belay ledge.
  • P2-5.7: Climb and on the right side of the dihedral stemming, jamming, or face climbing. Finish up to the right of a pine tree (has some old slings).
  • P3-5.7: Start out by moving above a dead tree (on the belay ledge) and to the right until a small crack is obtained. Straight up until the next belay ledge.
  • P4-5.8: Start in the hand crack next to the left facing wall. This is the crux (and the best part of the climb IMO). Continue up and slightly left to the flaring cracks above. The next belay is hanging so pick a point and set your anchors.
  • P5-5.7: Find a good crack and follow it to the top.

Note: all belays require gear for anchors! This could be done in 3 pitches by combining P1 and P2 and combining P3 and P4 and leaving P5 as a long pitch. Might need a 70 meter though?

Location

Start at the large (southwest facing) wall just left of the notch. Giggles is found at approximately the middle of the wall, see topo.

A walkoff is found by going down and east, then eventually south to the "notch" If you go south too early there you will encouter difficult downclimbing that leads to a sheer wall. However, rap slings can be found for descent. Be careful, especially with a 60m rope.

Protection

Bring a standard rack. A couple of large cams may be useful, but medium/smaller pro can be found by the creative leader.

Photos