Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Clark Jacobs and Bob Bolton, 1983
Page Views: 649 total · 5/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


2 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

The big and the little, the tall and the short. Quite the contrast in the body sizes of the first ascent party, and it's reflected by the name they gave the route.

Good rock, good climbing, thin technical moves.

From the extreme left end of the ledge make a move or two to stand up at the first bolt. The crux is encountered almost immediately, 11d edging/smearing on small steepish holds. Above, pass two more bolts, moving around the rib (11a) to the right after the last bolt. Somewhat runout climbing takes one to the top of the Buttress of Cracks.

Alternatively, it is possible to go left and up at the third bolt (10d), compliments of John Long. This is a more serious finish and may be loose enough to be unpleasant/scary.

Location

The large ledge on the left hand side of East Buttress Gully. One can also get there by doing a couple of moves up and right from the belay at the end of Captain Hook's first pitch.

Protection

Bolts and a bit of gear for the top anchor.

Photos

- No Photos -
johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
A very good pitch, hard 11d/12a for me, but Hensel cruises it. Crux is a hard step up left on a small edge, more sustained thin climbing up higher. Jan 28, 2018