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Routes in Buttress of Cracks - Left Side

Aqualung T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Arcy Farcy T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b PG13
Bacon Bits (aka Razor Games) T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
Bluebeard T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Bocomaru T 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Buccaneer, The T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Captain Hook T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Double Exposure T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b A1
Double Exposure Direct T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a R
Frustration T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ham Sandwich T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hernia - Direct Finish T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hernia, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Insomnia T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Pass Time T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Pirate, The T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Swashbuckler T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Sword of Damocles T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Walk the Plank T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Winter Solstice T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
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Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Clark Jacobs and Bob Bolton, 1983
Page Views: 627 total · 5/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 4, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

The big and the little, the tall and the short. Quite the contrast in the body sizes of the first ascent party, and it's reflected by the name they gave the route.

Good rock, good climbing, thin technical moves.

From the extreme left end of the ledge make a move or two to stand up at the first bolt. The crux is encountered almost immediately, 11d edging/smearing on small steepish holds. Above, pass two more bolts, moving around the rib (11a) to the right after the last bolt. Somewhat runout climbing takes one to the top of the Buttress of Cracks.

Alternatively, it is possible to go left and up at the third bolt (10d), compliments of John Long. This is a more serious finish and may be loose enough to be unpleasant/scary.

Location

The large ledge on the left hand side of East Buttress Gully. One can also get there by doing a couple of moves up and right from the belay at the end of Captain Hook's first pitch.

Protection

Bolts and a bit of gear for the top anchor.

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johannsolo
So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
johannsolo   So Cal, now in Sandy, UT
A very good pitch, hard 11d/12a for me, but Hensel cruises it. Crux is a hard step up left on a small edge, more sustained thin climbing up higher. Jan 28, 2018

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