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Routes in (g) Obsession Boulder

My Obsession T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Powell/Waugh Seam TR 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Super Buzz T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Darrell Hensel and Kevin Powell, 1987
Page Views: 419 total · 4/month
Shared By: Darrell Hensel on Sep 2, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


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Description

This is a challenging edging problem up the faint right leaning dike on the right hand side of the boulder. The crux is the sequence of moves passing the second bolt on its left, and involves some steep tricky moves on super slick quartz crystals. Above the last bolt wander up the increasingly easy face to the summit.

The second clip is thin, a quick clip setup with a runner might be a good idea in order to stay off the ground. The second bolt could have been placed a few moves lower but then it wouldn't have adequately protected the next section given the proximity of the ground. Given the need for the bolt to be where it is, the placing of the bolt was quite entertaining on the FA, with falls being taken to get it in (good job by KP).

Location

The rightmost route on the face.

Protection

Four bolts.

Photos

johannsolo
So Cal
johannsolo   So Cal
Great, thin edge crankin. Very good ground up bolt job, spicy, but safe with an attentive belay. Been years since I was on this route and it seemed hard then and now. Real 12a. Sep 17, 2017

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