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Routes in (91) Breakfast Cracks

Birds of Paradise T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackberry Jam T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Espresso T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Rabbit T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 210 total, 2/month
Shared By: David Wade on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


9 Opinions

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Description

Super sweet and easy hand crack, with ample crimps and smears to help things along. Rock is a little polished, but takes gear well. The crux is definitely the last two moves, and the anchor building options are limited. There is a stout chain around a tree used as a TR anchor, so check it out as you rap down.

Location

Easiest of the Breakfast Crack climbs to find: look for the giant chain. Rap down from above.

Protection

Gear to about small hand size. Good gear all the way, two #3 Camalots would have been better than one. No bolted anchor, so if you're leading, look it over closely first!

Photos

das1405
Portland
  5.10b
das1405   Portland
  5.10b
I finally made it up this climb after a few failed attempts! really fun and easy access make this a great climb. I know Carson (above comment) and was there the first time he climbed it. Everything he climbs is "not that hard" according to him, so while i am envious I also disagree that the finishing move is a .9 - definitely felt like a .10b with the rest of the climb being a solid .9 He is right that there is a pretty sweet fist jam at the crux that is clutch. thanks for cleaning that out Carson:).

now on to Blackberry Jam... Sep 8, 2016
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.9
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.9
Finishing crux move felt pretty ridic until I found the fist jam that had filled in with dirt. Grade of 5.9 feels fair to me. Most of the climb is 5.7/5.8 and takes gear readily. Nothing bigger than #2 BD or smaller than half inch needed. Apr 7, 2016
Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Didn't use any #3's, but did use 2 #2's and 2 #1's. The last move to the ledge is definitely harder than 5.9. Aug 8, 2014