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Routes in (91) Breakfast Cracks

Birds of Paradise T,TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Blackberry Jam T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Espresso T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
White Rabbit T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Trad, TR, 50 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 295 total · 2/month
Shared By: David Wade on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Nate Ball, Micah Klesick

You & This Route


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Description

Super sweet and easy hand crack, with ample crimps and smears to help things along. Rock is a little polished, but takes gear well. The crux is definitely the last two moves, and the anchor building options are limited. There is a stout chain around a tree used as a TR anchor, so check it out as you rap down.

Location

Easiest of the Breakfast Crack climbs to find: look for the giant chain. Rap down from above.

Protection

Gear to about small hand size. Good gear all the way, two #3 Camalots would have been better than one. No bolted anchor, so if you're leading, look it over closely first!

Photos

Nate Ball
Portland, OR
  5.10-
Nate Ball   Portland, OR  
  5.10-
Didn't use any #3's, but did use 2 #2's and 2 #1's. The last move to the ledge is definitely harder than 5.9. Aug 8, 2014
Carson Baker
Portland, OR
  5.9
Carson Baker   Portland, OR
  5.9
Finishing crux move felt pretty ridic until I found the fist jam that had filled in with dirt. Grade of 5.9 feels fair to me. Most of the climb is 5.7/5.8 and takes gear readily. Nothing bigger than #2 BD or smaller than half inch needed. Apr 7, 2016
das1405
Portland
  5.10a
das1405   Portland
  5.10a
I finally made it up this climb after a few failed attempts! really fun and easy access make this a great climb. I know Carson (above comment) and was there the first time he climbed it. Everything he climbs is "not that hard" according to him, so while i am envious I also disagree that the finishing move is a .9 - definitely felt like a .10b with the rest of the climb being a solid .9 He is right that there is a pretty sweet fist jam at the crux that is clutch. thanks for cleaning that out Carson:).

now on to Blackberry Jam... Sep 8, 2016

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