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Routes in South End

A Different School of Thought T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Birds of Prey T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Blood On The Tracks T,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Candy Corner T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Daydream, The T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Drop Zone T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Ecstasy T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Ecstasy Junior T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Fine Young Cannibals T 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b PG13
La Bella Vista T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
La Bella Vista: Lotus variation T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Lower Skyline Direct (LSD) T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Muscle Beach T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Nightwings T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Satisfaction 2 T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a A1 PG13
Shambler, The T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Simple J Malarky T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Sixth Sense T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Southern Exposure T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Southwest Buttress Variation T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Spinnaker S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Sunshine T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Superstition T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a R
T & T T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Tony's Nightmare T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Tony's Nightmare Direct Finish T 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b PG13
Totem T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Welcome to Seneca T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b PG13
Wild Men Only T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Ye Gods & Little Fishes T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 190 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tom Cecil, Todd Offenbach
Page Views: 1,266 total, 11/month
Shared By: Jeremy Steck on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Ladd, Vicki Schwantes, Jake Jones, Shawn Heath

You & This Route


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Description

P1: Climb the face with many really positive holds past many bolts. About 20 ft below the Kauffman Cardon Ledge, there's a set of shuts. To do the entire route, skip these shuts and head up and left to reach the shuts on the Kauffman Cardon Ledge. A piece or two may be needed here in the last 20 ft to reach the ledge. If you just climb to the first set of shuts, it's a sport route and probably easier than 5.9.

P2: Continue up the face slightly to the left of the belay. A piece or two of gear can be placed before the first bolt. From the bolt, aim for the small overhang, pass 2 more bolts, and climb to the top. Crux is near the overhang.

Location

Locate the ramp system 40 ft uphill from the start of Skyline Traverse, this ramp system marks the start of Worrell's Thicket. This is the next line with bolts over from H & H.

Protection

bolts, a few pieces of gear. Shuts at top of Pitch 1, belay from tree at the top of Pitch 2. Rap from fixed anchors above Bee Sting Corner about 30 ft to the left of the finish.

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Many seem to think this is a Sport climb--it is not--it is a mixed climb--if you bring gear (and can place it) this route is not runout at all. I put the route up, I would never set up a "Sport Climb" to create a contrived dangerous climb (not enough bolts). When setting Sport Climbs I feel a responsibility to the next climbers not to fuck it up. Taking a blank wall and deciding to bolt it but not put enough bolts in to at least keep you from hitting the ground is the definition of contrived and unnecessary. Aug 15, 2015
Befta Efta
Golden, CO
 
Befta Efta   Golden, CO
 
Fantastic climb! It's not the traditional seneca style either. It's much more sporty.

It is definitely run out throughout the whole climb, but the holds are really positive and the moves are solid. It's very slightly overhanging after the 4th bolt.

We rapped down bee sting, then to a tree then all the way down. Seems like there should be an easier way to go, but we were running out of daylight. Oct 20, 2010
Jesse Morehouse
CO
  5.8
Jesse Morehouse   CO
  5.8
This route is about 1/2 way between Skyline and Worrells. Look for the first bolt very high up with a large tree close to the base. You can either climb straight up to the bolt with no decent gear on thin but solid climbing or traverse in from the ledge system just off the ground on Skyline. Eiter way you run it out a bit. Great climbing, a long pitch if you go all the way to Broadway in one lead, but the clips are a bit of a stretch for short folks.

The intermediate belay was put it to allow rapping this with one rope if I remember correctly. Oct 21, 2008