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Routes in Section M

Arioso S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Blackmore S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Hazed & Infused S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Mr. Scary S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Space for the Papa S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Vikings S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 30 ft
FA: MJM & RAMM 8/07
Page Views: 101 total, 1/month
Shared By: abc on Sep 1, 2008
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short, sustained route on nice rock that has moments of looking like the good stuff at The Wasteland. If this route were 4 times longer, it would be a worthy route anywhere.

Location

This is the first route to the right of Space for the Papa. There is some rock between these two routes that may sprout a route later, however.

Protection

4 bolts to lowering anchors.

Photos

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davedad
Carbondale, CO
  5.11b
davedad   Carbondale, CO
  5.11b
An extended boulder problem. Fun if you want short and sustained. No endurance challenges with this one. Too bad it isn't 35 meters. Jul 28, 2014
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11a
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
  5.11a
I really like this route, although it's too bad it's so short and not 50 to 100 feet long. Then it would be 4 stars.

I think it's a little easier if you're tall, because I could reach from the undercling to the good hold next to the first bolt with relative ease compared to the "shorter" person's beta of using some crimps, which definitely seemed harder. Aug 11, 2011
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Fair enough, I guess there's a middle ground in there somewhere. Get me to the route & tell me what gear I need - describing crux holds & sequences just seems like a bit much to me. Agreed though, don't read if you don't want to know. Kind of hard once you click on the page however....

Oh, and the part about posting the grade as the "original" grade, well that's just funny. Feb 28, 2010
Monomaniac
Morrison, CO
Monomaniac   Morrison, CO  
I like MJM's descriptions. Nobody's got a gun to your head; if you don't want the blow-by-blow, stop reading. Feb 16, 2010
Glenn Schuler
Monument, Co.
Glenn Schuler   Monument, Co.
Not everyone wants a blow-by-blow "detailed description". It's a sport route, location & bolt count are all that's needed. I much prefer Brett's style of describing the route. Feb 12, 2010
BJ Sbarra
Carbondale, CO
BJ Sbarra   Carbondale, CO
I would say he should post the grade that the route actually is. Many of your climbs are sandbagged, even for Rifle, which doesn't really do much for anybody. It's great you are putting up all these routes, but why not accurately grade them? Nov 22, 2008
MJM
MJM  
Quite a few climbers have posted our routes, which we normally have no problem with. We are disappointed with this particular route posting.

#1 It’s Michael … not Micheal.

#2 When posting one of our routes please post the original grade. Original grade is.11a.

#3 Please leave a detailed description of the route you have posted.

Start with cruxy feet but pretty good hands (especially a killer hand hold up and out left) to get established. A nice undercling will launch you to a great hidden in-cut up and left. Follow nice various Rifle side pulls/ in cuts/ slopers and good feet up and right past clip 2 to a fair rest at an intermittent crack at clip 3. Some great but unobvious hands with more good feet will get you to the anchors.

Nice stone with some sustained movement, albeit a short route.

Michael & Rachel McGee


BJ, you may want to re-read the top of page 24 in "your" guidebook.

Schuler's 7 year (& counting) hard on is funny as well. Nov 22, 2008