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Archangel

5.10a, Sport,  Avg: 3.3 from 72 votes
FA: Dave Kessler, Jeff Frizzel 2004
Illinois > Jackson Falls > C. N Falls > A. Royal Arches Wall

Description

Lower crux with fun moves all through the climb. A little slabby and balancy as well. Really fun moves pulling the roof at the end to clip anchors.

Location

Last route that starts on the shelf. Moves up through the positive slab and then traverses left to the anchors above the roof.

Protection

6 QD + Anchors

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Archangel
[Hide Photo] Archangel
Very unique 10a! Undercling traverse at the top is rad!
[Hide Photo] Very unique 10a! Undercling traverse at the top is rad!
At the traverse -- if you love clipping off nothing but beautiful slabby smears, this climb is for you :)
[Hide Photo] At the traverse -- if you love clipping off nothing but beautiful slabby smears, this climb is for you :)

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Usman Akhter
Chicago
 
[Hide Comment] fairly sketchy slab start - I fell around 3rd clip about 15 ft, fell onto a slabby edge sticking out of wall and fractured my leg/ankle. if you're falling (especially near the start), make sure you jump out away from the wall to prevent foot/leg injury! Dec 3, 2018
Derek C
Italian Beefville, IL
 
[Hide Comment] Not sketchy and no, its not likely you're going to break or fracture anything. Don't jump off the wall on a slab lead; that is how you hurt yourself. In general, don't jump off the wall on any lead and remember to drink milk.

Well bolted, sloper haul, and solid 10a slab with a sick traverse to the anchors. If you're having trouble with 5.9 slab, you might want to hone your feet before you lead this awesome slab. Oct 5, 2020
Usman Akhter
Chicago
 
[Hide Comment] You can make your own judgment call as a climber on safety and fall technique. Fracturing my ankle may have been more of a freak accident but wanted to share my thoughts nonetheless.

Also, the correlation bw dairy consumption and bone health is conflicting at best. Jul 16, 2021
JC D
TN
 
[Hide Comment] Good climbing and very technically similar to the other slabs in the area, nothing stood out to me as sketchy nor dangerous. Certainly falling on slabs is no fun; at the third clip there is a pretty secure footjam that will help you clip. Dec 14, 2021