Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,305 total · 10/month
Shared By: saxfiend on Aug 31, 2008
Admins: saxfiend, Brad "Stonyman" Killough

You & This Route


16 Opinions

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Description

A surprisingly nice line, with sustained climbing and exposure similar to the more well-known Comfortably Numb. The name implies loose rock, but I only found one unstable block just above the ledge.

Start as with Pin Chimney; boulder your way out of the little cave and up to the ledge. Continue straight up through a roof with a big crack (going slightly right of the crack is the path of least resistance). Continue up the steep face past nice jugs and a section of Gunks-like horizontals to finish through a crack at the top.

Location

Shares start with Pin Chimney. The easiest descent option is to top out and walk across the top to the anchors for Standard Route and rap from there.

Protection

Mostly small to medium gear; some opportunities for slinging horns. Bolted anchors on top of the pinnacle.

Photos

Gus Fontenot
Alabama
 
Gus Fontenot   Alabama
 
great way to do this line is do start of Pin Chimney Direct and then finish on Loosey Goosey. Sep 10, 2008
James White
Alpharetta,GA
James White   Alpharetta,GA
Brad "Stonyman" Killough   Alabama  
Great route Jun 7, 2011
Mattisadude
  5.8
Mattisadude  
  5.8
One of my favorite easy/moderates at Sandrock. Best rock quality in the park - solid conglomerate gives way to bullet-hard white quartzite with excellent protection. Super safe! Great exposure, pure line, mostly 5.7 until 6 feet from the top where it probably is 5.8+ (maybe 9) for two moves, but very well protected. Three large bolts at the top with large but rusted hangers. Jan 29, 2017
Great rock quality. One of my favorites at Sandrock. Neat moves and neat rock the whole way! May 15, 2018