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Routes in Obscure Buffalo Creek Rocks

A Side Crack V0- 4-
B Side Crack V1- 5-
Buffalo Creek Spire T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Buffalo Creek Spire South Face A0
Classic Arete V3-4 6A+
Fear of Slabs V0- 4-
One Last Fix T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Shotgun Express T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Smoke a Fatty T,TR 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c V2 5+
Unknown V-easy 3
deGaulle's Nose aid route T C1+
deGaulle's Nose free route T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, TR, Boulder, 20 ft
FA: Dave and Chris Bell, mid 1970s?
Page Views: 919 total, 8/month
Shared By: Jason Kaplan on Aug 31, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This is a short but powerful dihedral crack that is an OW. Vertical if not slightly overhung. Starts as fists, if I remember right, then goes to wide fists and armbars at the crux (near the top out), stem out to the thin crack at the crux with your left foot.

I lead it on gear last summer trying to find A-hole rock. It's pretty stout for sure.

Location

Continue down 550 past de Gaulles Nose for a while, there is a large parking area that is surrounded by cable on your right (close to the Gnome Dome), park there. Follow the bike trail across the street up towards A-hole rock (stay left at the split and you will pass some rocks on your left shortly which have maybe 2-3 boulderable cracks), you will eventually make out a super faint clearing just off the trail to your right (a bit further down the trail) that was actually once an old road, follow it up the hill to the ridge line. Follow the ridge until you find the boulder pictured the problem faces A-hole, so you won't see it at first just check all the boulders on the ridge if you can't figure it out. It's maybe 1/3 to 1/2 way to A-hole rock.

Protection

Large cams mostly, you can use some smaller stuff for the anchor up top. Doubles in the #3-5 Camalot range would be useful, don't remember if I used my #6 or not but maybe bring it just in case. If you plan to boulder this thing, bring about 5 pads or maybe more, as there are a few large rocks in the landing and a fire ring as well.

Photos

Allen Hill
FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Allen Hill   FIve Points, Colorado and Pine
Good to see you found Chris. Did you get the tour of the garden? Feb 7, 2011
Jason Haas
  5.10b V0
Jason Haas  
  5.10b V0
FA: Dave and Chris Bell, mid 1970s. Feb 6, 2011
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
 
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
 
There are also some other cracks in the area that could be climbed I would imagine. Aug 31, 2008