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Routes in Deadwood

Calamity Jane T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Custer's Cutoff T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b R
Stable Boy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Wild Bill Hickok T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Trad, 75 ft
FA: Allen and Becky Sanderson Aug 2008
Page Views: 39 total, 0/month
Shared By: Allen Sanderson on Aug 30, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

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Description

Like any cutoff route taking it will lead to an easier passage but getting there may be fraught danger. This route is no different.

Boulder up the ramp to a shallow weakness in the headwall. The headwall is the crux (5.10) as there is scant pro albeit a small TCU placement along a vertical flake midway up. If you blow it, good chance that the landing on the ramp below will be hard. At the top one can reach a bomber crack that takes good pro. Use a long sling as the route now cuts off to the right on very positive holds (5.10). Above lies a very nice layback crack that leads to a short dihedral (5.7). The ramp adjacent to the lieback crack can be slick.

Location

See the topo photo

Protection

Small cams up to 1.5"

Photos

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