PRINT: Rock Climb The Flingus Cling, Squamish

The Flingus Cling

5.12b, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 3.5 from 40 votes
FA: Perry Beckham, May 1986
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Murrin Park > Petrifying Wall

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This is probably the most climbed 12 at the Pet Wall. It's often called a good first 12b. It's probably not a soft 12b, but it's one that can be worked more easily than others because it gets easier as the sequences are learned.

Two really solid cruxes are joined by sustained climbing and a slightly slopey finish make this a very fun outing.

Location

This is the leftmost climb on the upper tier of the Pet wall. From the rock outcrop that overlooks the lower tier, scramble down to the stump against the base of the wall and step left off the stump to start. Be careful, the first move is a bit balancey.

Protection

6 bolts plus two bolt anchor

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Nate Smith flinging and clinging

Brad running a top-rope lap on The Flingus Cling while an unknown climbing nears the top of Burning Down the Couch.

Dana working the moves on The Flingus Cling. This shot gives a good sense of the height and vertical nature of The Petrifying Wall; looking south we see the lower tier of the wall, with Howe Sound…

Brad starting The Flingus Cling.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Hoffmann
Squamish

Very fun climb. Really nice movement and great clipping positions. Very workable and definitely gets easier as the sequences are learned. Jun 10, 2015