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Routes in Babareena Area

Babareena Pass S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Caterpillar Exodus S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
La Babareena S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Snake Flake S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Snow Doubt S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Snow Doubt (to the first anchor) S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Mark Devries, 2003
Page Views: 175 total, 2/month
Shared By: kyber on Aug 27, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder

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Description

fairly sustained, tech climbing. lots of trusting of the feet with little crimps and odd pockets, fun!

Location

start on flake just left of babareena pass (a wandering crack) after flake turns into face climbing. new climb to the right?

Protection

10 bolts + one drop in and one chain. very weird to get lowered or rap off. the last link of the chain is higher than the drop in, so your basically lowering off one bolt.

Photos

K Gustafson
  5.10b
K Gustafson  
  5.10b
I actually thought this route was a classic. Tiny sharp holds on slab with a lot of friction feet. The rock was really wavy and I found myself using a lot of obscure pinches. The anchor could be better. Sep 4, 2017
Jim Lawyer    
 
I saw a couple of these anchor setups at Ten Sleep. If you add a leaver-biner to the end of the chain, then it equalizes nicely with the shut. Perhaps people are stealing the leaver-biners, leaving the chain dangerously higher than the shut? In other words, if you thread the chain, under tension the rope will slip out of the shut.

The problem would be solved if the chain was 3-4" longer. Until it's fixed, this is a single-point rappel/lower-off.

The route itself is quite sharp and not fun. Aug 17, 2016
Seb303
Denver, CO
Seb303   Denver, CO
I thought the route was fine and great sustained climbing at the grade. Anchor could be better, but hey it works. Aug 10, 2016
Wilburn
Cheyenne, WY
 
Wilburn   Cheyenne, WY
 
Interesting climb. Decent warm-up if nothing else is available, but overall it is better left alone. The anchor and awkward belay position take a lot of the fun out of this route. Jul 4, 2016
Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
 
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
 
This route is terrible. Sharp and unpleasant, I can't recommend this to anyone. Also, what was the equipper thinking when installing that abortion they left as an anchor. Take your rappel device and a good luck charm for the descent off of this route. Jul 15, 2015