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Vigilante

5.10c, Sport, 50 ft (15 m),  Avg: 2.2 from 22 votes
FA: Louie Anderson
California > Los Angeles Basin > Santa Monica Mo… > Malibu Creek SP > Stumbling Blocks
Warning Access Issue: New route or crag development is NOT permitted within Malibu Creek SP at this time. Do not improve trails or belay areas using materials brought from outside the park. DetailsDrop down

Description

A short route on mostly jugs, following a right-leaning arch. Small crux, not consistent climbing at the grade.

Climb good pockets up a short vertical face to a right-leaning arch. Follow the arch up and right a little ways, past one single move to a jug, then trend up towards the anchors. The bolts further to the right are for a different route. The route is mostly good pockets, and a huge foot helps through the crux, which is exactly one move. Guidebook calls this an .11a, that’s pushing it… a lot. It’s soft even at .10c.

Location

Starts on top of the boulder up and to the right of Chopping Block. There’s a hanger just above head height if you stand on the very peak of the boulder. The route that starts down in the cave is a different route.

Protection

4 bolts to sport anchors

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Vigilante Topo
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Madigan Carroll
[Hide Comment] yeah I think this assessment of the grade is completely nonsense. I have redpointed multiple 11+ sport routes of this length and I bailed off this today lol. this was after I onsighted a 10b in the same area. The start through the 3rd bolt is like V4+. This whole "its soft even for 10c" thing is, in my humble opinion, completely stupid.

Edit: based on comments by some of the ticks, (including one that said it was a 9 lol). people are going far left of the bolts and and then saying its super soft. There is a 5.8 right next to it, so it makes sense that if you were able to stick to left, its much easier. I believe the intention of the original route was to follow the arete until you get past the 3rd bolt, wich makes if very overhung with poor feet, even if there are pretty decent jugs for hands. I think the guidebook is correct in calling this 11a due to the difficulty of moving up the arete through the first couple bolts. Jun 17, 2023