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Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches,
Avg: 1.2 from 10
FA: Tom Bombaci, Chet Wade '87
> Joshua Tree NP
> Lost Horse Area
> Lost Horse Wall
> Lost Horse Wall - Rig…
An ok roof bypass that unfortunately involves a pitch and a half of uninteresting climbing to get there. A variation exists passing the roof on the left (5.9-ish) but it doesn't look as fun as going under on the right side.
P1: (5.6?) Follow the first half of the first pitch on the Swift (if doing it in two pitches), then veer left and work up some easy 5.0 with a few small sections of more moderate climbing, depending on the path you take. Youre aiming for the roof at the top. Setup belay just about anywhere.
P2: (5.10a) Follow any of several paths up towards the prominent roof, though the crack leading straight underneath it is probably best. Theres a right-slanting hand-sized crack under the roof that allows passage to the right and over. The crack is a bit gritty still, but with some traffic it could turn into a fun route. Plenty of opportunity to setup belay on the slabs above.
Longish scramble off to climbers right.
Start as for The Swift, up the ramp and traversing right under the headwall (if you protect its going to cut your pitch short). Go up the small chimney and break off of The Swift heading left, then up towards the roof at the top. The first pitch goes up easy broken terrain, theres no real defined path until you get close to the roof.
Standard rack, I cant remember if a 3 was absolutely necessary for the roof but Id take one.
[Hide Photo] Finishing via the left side big bombay roof, the one that would most likely induce altitude sickness. Having done all three roof finishes, felt this one the most enjoyable, even tho not the hardes…