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Altitude Sickness

5.10a, Trad, 250 ft, 2 pitches,  Avg: 1.2 from 10 votes
FA: Tom Bombaci, Chet Wade '87
California > Joshua Tree NP > Lost Horse Area > Lost Horse Wall > Lost Horse Wall - Rig…

Description

An ok roof bypass that unfortunately involves a pitch and a half of uninteresting climbing to get there. A variation exists passing the roof on the left (5.9-ish) but it doesn't look as fun as going under on the right side.

P1: (5.6?) Follow the first half of the first pitch on the Swift (if doing it in two pitches), then veer left and work up some easy 5.0 with a few small sections of more moderate climbing, depending on the path you take. You’re aiming for the roof at the top. Setup belay just about anywhere.

P2: (5.10a) Follow any of several paths up towards the prominent roof, though the crack leading straight underneath it is probably best. There’s a right-slanting hand-sized crack under the roof that allows passage to the right and over. The crack is a bit gritty still, but with some traffic it could turn into a fun route. Plenty of opportunity to setup belay on the slabs above.

Longish scramble off to climber’s right.

Location

Start as for The Swift, up the ramp and traversing right under the headwall (if you protect it’s going to cut your pitch short). Go up the small chimney and break off of The Swift heading left, then up towards the roof at the top. The first pitch goes up easy broken terrain, there’s no real defined path until you get close to the roof.

Protection

Standard rack, I can’t remember if a 3” was absolutely necessary for the roof – but I’d take one.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Finishing via the left side big bombay roof, the one that would most likely induce altitude sickness.  Having done all three roof finishes, felt this one the most enjoyable, even tho not the hardest.  Photo by Jill. Jan 2016.
[Hide Photo] Finishing via the left side big bombay roof, the one that would most likely induce altitude sickness. Having done all three roof finishes, felt this one the most enjoyable, even tho not the hardes…

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Scott Z
Highlands Ranch, CO
 
[Hide Comment] 250 feet of climbing with a 20 foot (or so) .10a section. Still a bit grungy and hollow flakes at/below the right-slanting "roof". A massively stuck forged friend with a yellow draw marks the crux of the route. A lifetime of classics to be had at Josh...this isn't one of them. Mar 24, 2010
summitAntics
san diego, ca
[Hide Comment] What. A route named Altitude Sickness? Must do. Apr 9, 2013
Sean
Oak Park, CA
 
[Hide Comment] if the start for The Swift is busy, could do an alternate P1 for Altitude Sickness further to climber's left and lower. start up two right-slanting cracks that later merge into one and continues slanting, left of and above a prominent dihedral ramp, passing a lil bush (crux with steep slopey feet). then the slanting crack straightens vertically near the end, leading up to the same P1 belay alcove ledge. 5.8 and approx 150 ft for this P1 Dec 9, 2016
nathanael
Riverside, CA
 
[Hide Comment] It's ok. Our first pitch was 1st half of P1 of The Swift, 5.0 ramp up left, up some cracks to a belay on a tree. Then we climbed up easy ground to a left-facing dihedral. This led up to the roof crack on the right. Then step right to get past the roof, easy ground to the top. Jan 18, 2017