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Routes in Castle Rock - North Face

Zorro T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Type: Trad, 100 ft
FA: Dave LePere & Ryan Crochiere
Page Views: 62 total, 1/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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2 Opinions

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Description

Head up a thin crack to a roof. Pass the roof on its right side. Follow a wider crack up past a hollow downward pointing flake, then up and left along discontinuous cracks. Climb ends at a nice tree with great views of the lake. For fun you can top out with a 5.0 pitch. Otherwise, head back to a rap station 50' behind the tree.

I think the start may be a tad harder than 10a, but I'll go with the guide rating here.

Protection

All sorts, small to large. Some good opportunities for passive pro.

Photos

Stormeh
  5.10b PG13
Stormeh  
  5.10b PG13
My opinion, this climb is awful. The climbing up to the roof is actually ok, but semi-difficult to pro. The jamming isn't great so liebacking is probably your best bet, making the inobvious pro difficult and pumpy to place. Once you make it to the roof, you are greeted with some of the dirtiest rock you will encounter in your life. The rock becomes chossy, meaning you will be thinking hard about whether or not that cam will blow should your foot pop off of the lichen and dirt covered holds.

Stay away from this climb if you like fun. Stay far away. Jul 13, 2014
C Miller   CA  
The FA info is wrong for this route as it was climbed at least in the 1980's if not earlier. Sep 11, 2011