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Routes in The Zoo

Calder's Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Excessive Bail S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Lightning Bolt S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Monkey Bars S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Zoo, The S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
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Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tristan Higbee, Christian Burrell
Page Views: 187 total · 2/month
Shared By: Tristan Higbee on Aug 25, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


32 Opinions

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Description

This isn't the best route on the wall, but it's worth doing. It's harder than it looks.

Use some fun pockets to get off the ground. The lower-angled middle section is deceptively difficult. The steep final section has pretty good holds, but you need to hunt around for them near the chains.

Location

The right-most route on the wall, right of The Zoo (5.10b).

Protection

5 bolts to chains.

Photos

Tristan Higbee
Ogden, UT
  5.9+
Tristan Higbee   Ogden, UT
  5.9+
The route is kinda dirty still. Fun route, though nothing to write home about. As the easiest route on the wall (apart from the crap 5.8...), it makes a good warmup. Hard for 5.9, but all the holds are there. Aug 25, 2008
I agree that while it's not a classic, it is worth doing and makes a good warm-up for the other good routes here.
The start seems to hold the hardest moves while the easy middle section proves harder than expected.
Good jugs appear just when you want them, but a few are a bit hidden so look around some.
There is a great finishing jug to the right of the chains that can be hard to see but feel around over there.
The routes name came from the bulbous holds on the final steep section. The coolest of which, unfortunately, was loose and had to go.

For the record: Tristan is NOT mean to gym members!!! Aug 26, 2008
Bad Sock Puppet  
  5.9
Ok route, makes for a good warm up. Decided it would take too much time to rope up so I just free-soloed it. Descend via class 4 scramble down the back. Start is crux with a medium reach to good holds. Sep 14, 2008
Christopher Miller  
  5.9+
Good warm up route, cool pockets at the start! Aug 14, 2009
Brian Koralewski
Springville, UT
  5.9+
Brian Koralewski   Springville, UT
  5.9+
Climbed it twice and I prefer to stay left approaching the chains- clip from the giant hold above the chains. Maybe I just didn't find the sweet jug up high on the right. Not too hard either way, though. May 23, 2013

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