PRINT: Rock Climb Rat's Alley, The New River Gorge Region

Rat's Alley

5.7, Trad, 70 ft (21 m),

Avg: 2.1 from 33 votes
FA: Kenny Hummel, Stanley Todd, 1986
W Virginia > New River Gorge… > New River Gorge… > Endless Wall > E) Kaymoor Slabs

Access Issue: NO DRONES ON NATIONAL PARKLANDS Details

All of the crags within the New River Gorge proper are on national parklands, and drone use is prohibited here. There has been some discussion about places to launch drones that are not on park property, and then flying them over the gorge. This is super poor form; don't do it. Park regulations prohibit all drone use over the boundaries without a permit.

Description

This climb is worth doing if you're looking for a nice 5.7 trad climb in this area. It has really cleaned up over the years. Follow the crack for about 30 ft to a stance, then pass the wider section to reach a very thick flake to the left of the shuts.

Location

Climb up to a ledge to reach the corner about 20 ft to the right of Total E Clips.

Protection

Larger gear. Bring a few 3-4" pieces. There's also a few spots for 2" pieces. A #5 Camalot will also fit for the moves off of the stance in the middle of the climb. Shuts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Follows the obvious wide-ish corner. Don't forget your #4's!

Rat's Alley

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Angela M
Huntington, WV

Save a #4 or 5 for the middle section. Can place a #2 at the final section before the shuts. Jun 1, 2021

Joe B
Pittsburgh, PA

I was having fun getting started, but I didn't have the hardware and had to bail. Def need those big cams. Jun 30, 2021

Adam Johnson
WV

Heads up, left glue-in shut was spinning as of March 5th, 2023. It's been reported to the bad bolts form.

Agree with Joe on the wide gear. I had one #4 and one #5. I wished I had more #4s but made it work. Good climb for the area—not slab and not too hard. Mar 8, 2023

Pat Goodman
Fayetteville, WV

New anchors as of 4/16/23 Apr 16, 2023