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Routes in Dave's Dinghy

Heads you win T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b R
Route One T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Mark Powell, Beverly Powell, and Don Lauria
Page Views: 72 total, 1/month
Shared By: Guy H. on Aug 24, 2008
Admins: Andrew Gram, Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Andy Busse, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

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Description

This is an enjoyable route that is well protected by the Needles standards. There are still a handful of runouts on easier rock.

Scramble up to gully and pull on to the rock from a large chockstone. Angle up to the right and clip a fixed pin, which can be backed up with a large brass nut. Climb the face to the left until you can join the arete and a nut placement (#10 HB). Make a 5.10a move on the arete, even though the bolt tempts you to the right. After the bolt, angle left to the arete and place a flared #1 camalot which can be backup up with a small ball nut. Clip the final bolt (crux) and angle right on easier rock to a 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Start the route on top of the huge chockstone...

Protection

One set of Aliens (blue through red), nuts, #1 camalot, and optional ball nuts

Bring lots of long slings to reduce drag.

Photos

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