[Hide Comment] How hasn't anyone commented on this route yet? The book gives this one 3 stars as it should. Superb route. Great rock quality, great belay ledges, bomber gear, do this one!

Pitch 1-mostly hands/wide hands. Use your #2-#3 camalots wisely here. A #4 camalot is also useful for one of the crux pods. A full 200' pitch here. We had a 70m and it only had 20 feet or so left starting on the ground. You can start higher on the big block too. Great belay ledge on top of pitch 1, with a fixed sling/nut thing or use small tcu sized gear for belay.
Pitch 2- Chimney start with about 3 crack sizes for gear. This leads to cruxy thin finger locks(long reach helpful) to the horizontal hand traverse. Be ready with a .75/1 camalot here. Punch it to the right. Short pitch, zesty. #3 camalots for belay.
Pitch 3- Wide hands for about 30 feet. A few nut placements and one blue tcu option exist in cracks out right, but obviously you will need 2 #3 camalots for this section. I found a #4 was too big for most of the crack but fits near the roof, and is helpful on pitch 1 as well. No need to fret though if you don't have one. Then romp up the loose stacked blocks to the top. Walk off west for 10 minutes, then find easy downclimb and back to your packs. Sep 16, 2012

[Hide Comment] If you're up in the cirque, definitely go get on this climb. This route is just as classic as the center thumb or Lowe route with excellent varied climbing. The first pitch is looong so conserve those #2's and #3's. The corner on P1 is like the start of the Lowe route but longer and more sustained. Jun 29, 2014

[Hide Comment] I agree with the previous comments. This is one of the best routes in the cirque. Don't stand in line to get on triple overhangs or center thumb, this route is generally empty and is probably even better climbing.
I did use the #4 camalot on pitch one and three. You could get by without it, but it makes the pitch 3 crux way less scary. If I would have had three #3 camalots, they would have been used, but I was fine with two. Also, linked pitch 3-4 with no problem. All in all, I loved this route and would recommend it to anyone comfortable at 5.10. Jun 30, 2014

[Hide Comment] The first pitch has got to be the best handcrack in the Wasatch. Bring doubles (at least) of 2 and 3 or be prepared to run it out. The last pitch is not so great. Jul 13, 2014

[Hide Comment] Ya, careful on that last pitch - there are some very precarious looking blocks.
The anchor on top of the first pitch is in bad shape, so bring some new cord/slingage if you plan on doing only the first pitch. Jul 14, 2015

[Hide Comment] This might be the best route I've climbed in Lone Peak. I'm not quite sure the #4 was necessary for this climb. My partner used it and a #3.5 to protect the pods on pitch 1, but I couldn't find a single spot to use them on the offwidth pitch (#3s all the way). Jul 11, 2016

[Hide Comment] What an awesome route, one of the best i've done anywhere. pitch 3 is hardly an offwidth. I never even put one side of my body in. more like a wide hands crack IMO. As everyone else has said the #4 isn't necessary but if you bring it there are plenty of places to use it on pitches 1, 3 and 4. Also linking the last two pitches didn't have too bad of rope drag but building a belay near the top required a little more creativity. Jul 12, 2017

[Hide Comment] This route is super good.

p1 - Super long with great jams and gear the whole way. Endurance.
p1 - Chimney with a thin hands/finger crack to a ledge. From there finger james to a cruxy juggy traverse.
p3 - Wide hands to OW to hand crack. Not as bad as it looks. #4 not necessary but can be used.
p4 - blocks to the top.


I dont see any reason to pitch out 3&4. Combine w/ a 60m.


Walk off to the climbers right. Super good! Jul 13, 2017

[Hide Comment] Such a great route! Mostly 9+/10- except for the crux traverse, which felt like solid 5.10. We swapped leads, but I'd say the better way to do this route is for one person to lead pitch 1 & 2, and then the other person lead pitch 3 & 4 (we linked these). The crux is fun but it'd be nice for each leader to get in one some of the sweet hand crack action. We used doubles to #2, three #3's and one #4. Jul 8, 2019

[Hide Comment] Based on the beta and previous comments, I was expecting a fairly consistent wide hands crack on pitch 1 that would take all the #3's I could throw at it. I was surprised, then, to find that this crack is pretty varied between thin hands to fists. It's never too sustained at one size for very long.

I was also surprised, after climbing pitch 3, that not more people raved about it! It's an amazing hand crack, maybe better than pitch 1, that pulls through two steller overhangs. This route could fittingly be renamed Double Overhangs because of pitch 3.

All in all, an outstanding route, easily one of the very best I've done on granite. Deserves to be every bit as classic as the more popular Cirque routes! Jul 22, 2019

[Hide Comment] Pitch 3+4 is the money pitch for sure. And no need for triples! This thing is better than triple overhangs.

Also, our #4 broke a wire and we managed well without it. Aug 29, 2019