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5.10b, Trad, Alpine, 4 pitches,
Avg: 3.7 from 55 votes
FA: Les Ellison, Dirk Tyler & Lynn Wheeler, 1978
Utah > Wasatch Range > Central Wasatch > Lone Peak Cirque > Hyperform Wall
This route starts in the prominent dihedral towards the left end of the wall.
P1. Jam up a long corner with two pods providing difficulties.
P2. Short pitch. A fingercrack leads to a pumpy rightward shuffle to a belay ledge.
P3. The obvious wide crack staring at you. It's nice to have a cam bigger than a #4 Friend on this pitch.
P4. Stacked vertical blocks. Though scary looking, there is decent pro and the climbing is much easier than the previous pitches.
Double set stoppers/cams. One #4 Camalot or equivalent for third pitch.
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Wheels at the crux, near the end of the second pitch during the F.A. Photo L. Ellison
Behold! (Cue 'Flight of the Valkyrie')
Looking down the corner. Sweet!
Full picture of route
couple of monkeys making short work of Hyperform
Contemplating the finger crack to hand traverse. Both hidden from view in this picture.
Sean part way up P1
Pitch 1. Full 60m pitch
Pitch 2 chimney on left, with the crux traverse inbetween the 2 black spots.
Pitch 3 wide crack
Pitch 2 chimney before the cruxy traverse
pitch 1 corner
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Salt Lake city
How hasn't anyone commented on this route yet? The book gives this one 3 stars as it should. Superb route. Great rock quality, great belay ledges, bomber gear, do this one!
Pitch 1-mostly hands/wide hands. Use your #2-#3 camalots wisely here. A #4 camalot is also useful for one of the crux pods. A full 200' pitch here. We had a 70m and it only had 20 feet or so left starting on the ground. You can start higher on the big block too. Great belay ledge on top of pitch 1, with a fixed sling/nut thing or use small tcu sized gear for belay.
Pitch 2- Chimney start with about 3 crack sizes for gear. This leads to cruxy thin finger locks(long reach helpful) to the horizontal hand traverse. Be ready with a .75/1 camalot here. Punch it to the right. Short pitch, zesty. #3 camalots for belay.
Pitch 3- Wide hands for about 30 feet. A few nut placements and one blue tcu option exist in cracks out right, but obviously you will need 2 #3 camalots for this section. I found a #4 was too big for most of the crack but fits near the roof, and is helpful on pitch 1 as well. No need to fret though if you don't have one. Then romp up the loose stacked blocks to the top. Walk off west for 10 minutes, then find easy downclimb and back to your packs.
Sep 16, 2012
If you're up in the cirque, definitely go get on this climb. This route is just as classic as the center thumb or Lowe route with excellent varied climbing. The first pitch is looong so conserve those #2's and #3's. The corner on P1 is like the start of the Lowe route but longer and more sustained.
Jun 29, 2014
I agree with the previous comments. This is one of the best routes in the cirque. Don't stand in line to get on triple overhangs or center thumb, this route is generally empty and is probably even better climbing.
I did use the #4 camalot on pitch one and three. You could get by without it, but it makes the pitch 3 crux way less scary. If I would have had three #3 camalots, they would have been used, but I was fine with two. Also, linked pitch 3-4 with no problem. All in all, I loved this route and would recommend it to anyone comfortable at 5.10.
Jun 30, 2014
The first pitch has got to be the best handcrack in the Wasatch. Bring doubles (at least) of 2 and 3 or be prepared to run it out. The last pitch is not so great.
Jul 13, 2014
Ya, careful on that last pitch - there are some very precarious looking blocks.
The anchor on top of the first pitch is in bad shape, so bring some new cord/slingage if you plan on doing only the first pitch.
Jul 14, 2015
Derek West Newman
Salt Lake City, Utah
This might be the best route I've climbed in Lone Peak. I'm not quite sure the #4 was necessary for this climb. My partner used it and a #3.5 to protect the pods on pitch 1, but I couldn't find a single spot to use them on the offwidth pitch (#3s all the way).
Jul 11, 2016
What an awesome route, one of the best i've done anywhere. pitch 3 is hardly an offwidth. I never even put one side of my body in. more like a wide hands crack IMO. As everyone else has said the #4 isn't necessary but if you bring it there are plenty of places to use it on pitches 1, 3 and 4. Also linking the last two pitches didn't have too bad of rope drag but building a belay near the top required a little more creativity.
Jul 12, 2017
This route is super good.
p1 - Super long with great jams and gear the whole way. Endurance.
p1 - Chimney with a thin hands/finger crack to a ledge. From there finger james to a cruxy juggy traverse.
p3 - Wide hands to OW to hand crack. Not as bad as it looks. #4 not necessary but can be used.
p4 - blocks to the top.
I dont see any reason to pitch out 3&4. Combine w/ a 60m.
Walk off to the climbers right. Super good!
Jul 13, 2017
Such a great route! Mostly 9+/10- except for the crux traverse, which felt like solid 5.10. We swapped leads, but I'd say the better way to do this route is for one person to lead pitch 1 & 2, and then the other person lead pitch 3 & 4 (we linked these). The crux is fun but it'd be nice for each leader to get in one some of the sweet hand crack action. We used doubles to #2, three #3's and one #4.
Jul 8, 2019
Based on the beta and previous comments, I was expecting a fairly consistent wide hands crack on pitch 1 that would take all the #3's I could throw at it. I was surprised, then, to find that this crack is pretty varied between thin hands to fists. It's never too sustained at one size for very long.
I was also surprised, after climbing pitch 3, that not more people raved about it! It's an amazing hand crack, maybe better than pitch 1, that pulls through two steller overhangs. This route could fittingly be renamed Double Overhangs because of pitch 3.
All in all, an outstanding route, easily one of the very best I've done on granite. Deserves to be every bit as classic as the more popular Cirque routes!
Jul 22, 2019
Pitch 3+4 is the money pitch for sure. And no need for triples! This thing is better than triple overhangs.
Also, our #4 broke a wire and we managed well without it.
Aug 29, 2019