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Routes in West Bend Crag

April's Fool T,S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Drug Test T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Electric Ladyland T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Hidden Surprise T,S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Lenyo Breath T,S 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Morning Sun T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Pay Back S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Violation T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Trad, Sport, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 57 total, 1/month
Shared By: GeoffElson Elson on Aug 21, 2008
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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Titanic reopens! South Hardscrabble Creek remains closed. Details

Description

Last bolted route on the right. Start on the shelf and awkwardly climb through laybacks/arete clipping bolts, sometimes through crappy rock to a traverse ledge with no feet but big jugs to the right for 10 feet, actually kind of fun. Go up into a layback flake, medium large gear, then slight left into sporty careful climbing, the crux is going for the anchors.

Location

Last bolted route on the right.

Protection

5-6 QDs, many long runners, standard rack to a #3 Camalot.

Photos

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The first few moves are protected by bolts. I use a #4.5 Camalot after the last bolt when traversing to the right. Once you are in the left-facing corner, you can place a #2 or #3 Camalot. The rest of the climb is protected by bolts. Definitely bring a few long draws to minimize rope drag. The crux for me is right after the last bolt on the lower part of the climb. We rated it 5.11 because of this move. Nov 12, 2008