PRINT: Rock Climb Diedro de Jim (5), Rio Negro

Diedro de Jim (5)

5.8, Trad, Alpine, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,

Avg: 3.5 from 83 votes
FA: Jim Donini
International > S America > Argentina > Rio Negro > San Carlos de B… > Frey > Aguja Frey

Description

A delicious, easily accesible two pitch route with great crack climbing.

P1 Climb a beautiful dihedral with great gear to a two bolt anchor at a small stance where the crack moves onto the right face (5.8 140ish')

P2 Traverse right and, while screaming with joy, jam your way up the splitter hand/wide hand crack to the top of the formation and a two bolt anchor (5.6 50ish')

Descent: With two ropes, rap from top o' pitch two to the base of the climb.

Location

The route is located just up and right of Lost Fingers. From the Refugio Emilio Frey, ascend to the base of Aguja Frey and stay right. Ascend fourth class terrain for 40' and then continue up and along the base until you can't go any further and are at the base of a beautiful dihedral.

Protection

A standard rack of nuts and SLCDs to 3.5 inches is fine.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

A general overview of some of the routes on Aguja Frey. That is me on top and Juan Carlos Quierolo climbing the last pitch of Sifuentes Weber.

unknown Brazilian climber on la fissura de Jim

Leading Diedro de Jim.<br>
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You can see the lagoon and the refuge on the back.

Leading Diedro de Jim. You can see the lagoon and the refuge on the back.

Looking over at Aguja Frey from the p2 anchor

Pitch 2. The view alone...

P1 belay

Start of P1

P2 hand jamming

The scramble up to the climb is VERY steep 4th class. Highly recommend a rope if you're taking an inexperienced climber up.<br>
<br>
Don't miss it!

The scramble up to the climb is VERY steep 4th class. Highly recommend a rope if you're taking an inexperienced climber up. Don't miss it!

Juan Quierolo jamming P2 on Diedro De Jim

Juan belaying me on P2 as I climb the splitter crack

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Sirius
Oakland, CA

Pitch 2: Traverse right and... Sep 26, 2008

Jared Spaulding
Central WY

5.8

Yeah your right, sometimes I get my left and rights mixed up. Ill fix that. Sep 28, 2008

Ethan Neff

With a few long runners this can be done as one pitch with a 70m rope. However, you'll have to rap twice unless you bring a second rope. Awesome climb! Jun 30, 2009

David Appelhans
Broomfield, CO

5.8

It can also be done in one pitch with a 60m. Sep 14, 2009

Medic741
Des Moines, IA (WTF)

5.8 PG13

Wonderful climb. The exposure on P2 is pretty stiff after the traverse. Bring a big cam if you have it, the wonderful hand crack is a weird OW size for the first few moves and feels VERY exposed if you don't have a big piece. Without it a fall would be very ill advised... Aug 5, 2012

Kevin DB

You can also walk off/scramble down the back side of it. Pretty cool and mellow and safe. Feb 26, 2013

chipacles

5.8

Did this Dec 2013. I recommend doing it in one pitch. Jan 25, 2014

claytown
Boulder, CO

Classic climbing! I would call both pitches 5.9 though. I was able to rappel with a single 60m. Once to the intermediate anchor and from there to the ground (out right on the ledge). Be careful if your rope is potentially a little short of 60m or doesn't stretch much. Dec 27, 2014

John Gassel
Boulder, CO

5.8

A great first climb to do in Frey. You can see if people are on the route right from the Refugio and it's pretty soft for the grade compared to other routes. Plus it's really fun, especially P2!

Can be done in 1 pitch with a 70m. Can be rapped with a single 70m (2 raps). Jan 9, 2017

Dylan Harris
Bariloche, Rio Negro, AR

Gets shade in the morning. Depending on current temps it's better in the morning or afternoon. Solid 5.8 crack climbing Jun 3, 2019

Guillermo Valverde
Madrid

5.9

Pitch 1 felt a lot easier than pitch 2 to me May 26, 2020