Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Donini
Page Views: 5,793 total · 46/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Tony Yeary, Camster (Rhymes with Hamster), Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route

56 Opinions

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A delicious, easily accesible two pitch route with great crack climbing.

P1 Climb a beautiful dihedral with great gear to a two bolt anchor at a small stance where the crack moves onto the right face (5.8 140ish')

P2 Traverse right and, while screaming with joy, jam your way up the splitter hand/wide hand crack to the top of the formation and a two bolt anchor (5.6 50ish')

Descent: With two ropes, rap from top o' pitch two to the base of the climb.


The route is located just up and right of Lost Fingers. From the Refugio Emilio Frey, ascend to the base of Aguja Frey and stay right. Ascend fourth class terrain for 40' and then continue up and along the base until you can't go any further and are at the base of a beautiful dihedral.


A standard rack of nuts and SLCDs to 3.5 inches is fine.
Oakland, CA
Sirius   Oakland, CA
Pitch 2: Traverse right and... Sep 26, 2008
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
Yeah your right, sometimes I get my left and rights mixed up. Ill fix that. Sep 28, 2008
Ethan Neff  
With a few long runners this can be done as one pitch with a 70m rope. However, you'll have to rap twice unless you bring a second rope. Awesome climb! Jun 30, 2009
David Appelhans
Broomfield, CO
David Appelhans   Broomfield, CO
It can also be done in one pitch with a 60m. Sep 14, 2009
Des Moines, IA (WTF)
  5.8 PG13
Medic741   Des Moines, IA (WTF)
  5.8 PG13
Wonderful climb. The exposure on P2 is pretty stiff after the traverse. Bring a big cam if you have it, the wonderful hand crack is a weird OW size for the first few moves and feels VERY exposed if you don't have a big piece. Without it a fall would be very ill advised... Aug 5, 2012
Kevin DB  
You can also walk off/scramble down the back side of it. Pretty cool and mellow and safe. Feb 26, 2013
Did this Dec 2013. I recommend doing it in one pitch. Jan 25, 2014
Boulder, CO
claytown   Boulder, CO
Classic climbing! I would call both pitches 5.9 though. I was able to rappel with a single 60m. Once to the intermediate anchor and from there to the ground (out right on the ledge). Be careful if your rope is potentially a little short of 60m or doesn't stretch much. Dec 27, 2014
John Gassel
Somerville, MA
John Gassel   Somerville, MA
A great first climb to do in Frey. You can see if people are on the route right from the Refugio and it's pretty soft for the grade compared to other routes. Plus it's really fun, especially P2!

Can be done in 1 pitch with a 70m. Can be rapped with a single 70m (2 raps). Jan 9, 2017