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Routes in Aguja Frey

Diedro de Jim (5) T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Los Museos T 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Los Museos/Abrojos e Centellas/Lost Fingers T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13
Lost Fingers T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Perfil del Mujer T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b PG13
Sifuentes Weber T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Sifuentes-Monti T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, Alpine, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Jim Donini
Page Views: 4,962 total, 44/month
Shared By: Jared Spaulding on Aug 20, 2008
Admins: Tony Yeary, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra

You & This Route


54 Opinions

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Description

A delicious, easily accesible two pitch route with great crack climbing.

P1 Climb a beautiful dihedral with great gear to a two bolt anchor at a small stance where the crack moves onto the right face (5.8 140ish')

P2 Traverse right and, while screaming with joy, jam your way up the splitter hand/wide hand crack to the top of the formation and a two bolt anchor (5.6 50ish')

Descent: With two ropes, rap from top o' pitch two to the base of the climb.

Location

The route is located just up and right of Lost Fingers. From the Refugio Emilio Frey, ascend to the base of Aguja Frey and stay right. Ascend fourth class terrain for 40' and then continue up and along the base until you can't go any further and are at the base of a beautiful dihedral.

Protection

A standard rack of nuts and SLCDs to 3.5 inches is fine.
John Gassel
Boston, MA
  5.8
John Gassel   Boston, MA
  5.8
A great first climb to do in Frey. You can see if people are on the route right from the Refugio and it's pretty soft for the grade compared to other routes. Plus it's really fun, especially P2!

Can be done in 1 pitch with a 70m. Can be rapped with a single 70m (2 raps). Jan 9, 2017
claytown
Boulder, CO
 
claytown   Boulder, CO
 
Classic climbing! I would call both pitches 5.9 though. I was able to rappel with a single 60m. Once to the intermediate anchor and from there to the ground (out right on the ledge). Be careful if your rope is potentially a little short of 60m or doesn't stretch much. Dec 27, 2014
chipacles
  5.8
chipacles  
  5.8
Did this Dec 2013. I recommend doing it in one pitch. Jan 25, 2014
Kevin DB  
 
You can also walk off/scramble down the back side of it. Pretty cool and mellow and safe. Feb 26, 2013
Medic741
Red Hook, New York
  5.8 PG13
Medic741   Red Hook, New York
  5.8 PG13
Wonderful climb. The exposure on P2 is pretty stiff after the traverse. Bring a big cam if you have it, the wonderful hand crack is a weird OW size for the first few moves and feels VERY exposed if you don't have a big piece. Without it a fall would be very ill advised... Aug 5, 2012
David Appelhans
Medford, MA
  5.8
David Appelhans   Medford, MA
  5.8
It can also be done in one pitch with a 60m. Sep 14, 2009
Ethan Neff  
 
With a few long runners this can be done as one pitch with a 70m rope. However, you'll have to rap twice unless you bring a second rope. Awesome climb! Jun 30, 2009
Jared Spaulding
Central WY
 
Jared Spaulding   Central WY
 
Yeah your right, sometimes I get my left and rights mixed up. Ill fix that. Sep 28, 2008
Sirius
Oakland, CA
 
Sirius   Oakland, CA
 
Pitch 2: Traverse right and... Sep 26, 2008