Adventure Projects is hiring a web engineer to join us in Boulder, CO
Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Desperado Wall

Black Slabbeth T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brain Damage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breaking The Law T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Granite Man T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hocus Focus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Slabbeth, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into The Void T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jail Break T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metal Meltdown T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reckless Criminal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Return Of Grunge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ride The Lightning T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Slabbra Cadabbra T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticks & Stones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Order Wrong? Sort Routes
Type: Trad, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Tim Snyder, Nathan Brown -- FFA Brian Williams
Page Views: 902 total · 7/month
Shared By: nbrown on Aug 19, 2008
Admins: Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


3 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do · View List

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Access Issue: Temporarily closed. Details

Description

P-1 (5.10+/A0 or 5.12a) Climb past a pin and bolt via large patina type holds to a diagonal line of bolts. There is an A-0 move at the 5th bolt that now goes free and involves some thin terrain and use of a small crystal. Continue up to a short crack that leads to a thin face, passing 2 more bolts to the anchor.
P-2 (5.11) Climb straight up to a good slot, which is perfect for a pink tricam. Continue up past 2 more bolts (crux) to easier terrain. Move right a bit, and follow the line of least resistance (generally straight up) past many of the same size horizontals (small alliens or TCU's) to the last bolt. Continue to 2 bolt rap anchor.

Location

This is the right hand line of bolts just right of Slabbra Cadabbra, and at the top of the gully.

Protection

P-1 light rack
P-2 pink tricam, 2-3 sets of small/medium aliens or TCU's

Photos

Tim Snyder freed the A0 move today and completed the FFA of the first pitch. 5.12b most likely. Well done Tim!

For the first piece above the belay on the 2nd pitch, place a bomber #3 Metolius TCU and leave the pink tricam at home. Apr 5, 2009
nbrown
western NC --> Broomfield, CO
 
nbrown   western NC --> Broomfield, CO
 
Actually Brian Williams beat Tim to the FFA by a week or so. May 22, 2009

More About Hocus Focus

Printer-Friendly