Avg: 3 from 42 votes
|Type:||Trad, 1400 ft (424 m), 15 pitches, Grade V|
|FA:||FA: 1962 Yvon Chouinard and T.M Herbert FFA John Long, Pete Minks, Erik Erickson 1976|
|Page Views:||16,278 total · 109/month|
|Shared By:||S. Stember on Aug 19, 2008|
|Admins:||Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes|
Yosemite National Park climbing closures and conditions
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15.
Always check the Yosemite website Peregrine Closure page at nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warning due to current fires, smoke, etc.
P2: 3/4th class ramp. Link first two Ps by simul-climbing. Two Bolts
P3: 5.8 Chimney
P4: 5.8 Hand crack. Move out onto the front of the pinnacle. Link P3 and 4 with a 60M rope.
P5: 5.10C From the top of the pinnacle, move right off a ledge towards a vegetated crack. Clip several pins on your way upwards. Bolted Anchor.
P6: 5.11B Move right on some 5.9 slab towards a corner system with pitons in it. Move up 5.11B l/b or C1 for about 25 feet. Bolter anchor.
P7: 5.10A Many pitons. Mantle and l/b a very enjoyable face below a left angling and facing crack system.
P8: 5.10A Move up 1-2 inch crack system (careful, loose rock) and move right over several blocks and ledges. Bolted anchor.
P9: 4th class move right for awhile then left when terrain allows.
P10: 5.9 Climb towards obvious pillar. The right side of the pillar is splitter hands (easy) and will leave you at an anchor with one bolt and one piton (ackward belay). Link P9 and 10 with a 60M rope.
P11: 5.11A Off the pillar, climb the strenuous 5.8 OW crack to a roof. 5.11A. Move upwards to another short roof. 5.10+. Bolted anchor.
P12: 5.11C or C1 Afro-Cuban Flakes. Climb up a 5.10A dihedral to many pitons that traverse to the right. When you reach a thin crack going up, continue up this crack (5.10A, airy!)to a bolted anchor.
P13: 5.8 Climb a chimney/crack system. Trad anchor.
P14: 5.4 ramp/chimney. Trad anchor/tree anchor. Link P13-14 with a 60M rope.
P15: Climb up easy crack to the summit.
Route notes: All anchors are new ASCA bolts, most have two bolts some have just one with a piton to back it up. This is a top-notch route that has great climbing in the middle. The approach pitches and last couple are less than amazing, but the heart of the route is phenomenal.