Chouinard-Herbert

I'm almost wondering if you missed something...maybe you climb a varation???
No mention of the Afro/Cuban flakes? That pitch is at least 5.11c and not mentioned.... This description is off. Aug 25, 2008

J. Thompson-

I definitely missed something. Initially I only had time to post up to P11 and decided to come back to it when I had more time. Now the description is accurate, complete, and up to date. Thanks for the concern. Aug 27, 2008

...or just freesolo it climbingnarc.com/2011/10/al… 60 Minutes Video Oct 3, 2011

Would love to see a legit description of this route if anyone has got one. Jun 12, 2012

Did this route on Jul 31 2012. Fantastic climb. I found the description by Stember to be basically accurate.

The left of two belay bolts at belay 6 (top of .11b/c layback) was loose. It is a new good bolt (rawl 3/8) and I was able to tighten it a bit by hand, but somebody needs to take a wrench and snug it up a bit. Aug 4, 2012

Good TR and route description here: dreaminvertical.com/2011/11… Feb 12, 2013

I did this route this last weekend and thought it was awesome. The approach to the first pitch is ambiguous and the descent is involved, but the climbing makes it worth it. I ended up leading every pitch. The cruxes are bouldery and not super sustained. I thought the pitch below the Afro-Cuban flakes was the crux, as it is the most sustained bit of climbing (the actual moves over the roof aren't too bad, but you have to continue on through 5.10d climbing above). Pulling over the AC flakes isn't that bad and there are good right handholds on the face you can crimp while your left hand is in the crack. Lots of fixed pins, gear is good at the cruxes and the pitches go pretty fast. May 20, 2013

I was expecting something a bit better of this route. Worst approach in the valley (including almost an hour of roped scrambling in our hiking shoes through munge), worst descent in the valley, and tons of mank on the climb including probably over a hundred old rusty pins, many with cracked eyes.

The two belays below and above the 11a pitch are the worst/most cramped belays I've ever hung on/stemmed through. The one below has a nice pedestal, but the only bolt is at your ankle level if you stand on it and the crack is too far to the side. The pin is gone, but you can back up the bolt with a #1 cam (don't leave the #2 here, since it's nice to have 2 hand-size pieces for the wyde). The belay at the top of the 11a pitch is a nice new pair of bolts that were placed 4 feet shy of the small stance and the original manchor that is still there consisting of 3 pins and an ancient tattered sling.

A note on the approach. I've tried 3 different options. The best way to go is if you identify a very polished and clean-looking OW that is about 60 feet below the start of Steak-Salad. Start a little higher than that by hiking up the sandy slope up to the big tree for 20 feet, then scramble up and back left aiming toward the top of the said polished OW, that at it's top turns into an easy gully. You end up climbing up a mossy 5.5 handcrack to a ramp with the tree at its top, then slide down into the gully or campus the edge of the ramp around the tree. That will get you to the bolted anchor that is mentioned in the nice approach topo that someone posted.

Go light on the rack, just bring 15 draws for all the pins. I kept running short on them with 12. Singles from green alien to #3, with the second #1 and #2 camalots will get you to the top if you are into a minimalist rack. Leave the stoppers in the trunk. If you find my 0.5 cam on the approach - congratulations! Oct 14, 2014

Well, you can't please everybody. This route is a Yosemite Classic testing the fledgling Big Wall climber with a myriad of free and aid challenges...but if you are solid 5.11/12 leader looking for a great free route in the Astroman/Rostrum mold you will be disappointed.

Still a great Yosemite challenge (there is no 5th class on the approach or you are doing it wrong) with a full day or two in a real "mountain" atmosphere.

Ask me to tell you about the 2 days I spent on the bivy ledge with a concussed partner, verglas making rappelling impossible and ice sheets raining down.

Then we topped out. Feb 21, 2017

Long approach, wonderful route. Good rock and varied pitches. I would repeat this route with pleasure.

Approach: Same as Steck-Salathe until you hit the sandy slope. For Steck you go all the way up the slope then trend right under the wall. For C-H go a bit up the slope and keep your eyes peeled up and left for a chimney/trough feature that is about 100ft tall. It shows obvious wear on the rock of being climbed. Go up this at ~5.6 with some loose mangy rock. Then ascend 4th class cracks/ledges for a bit. Go up an easy 5th slab trough feature. Above this we found fixed hand lines to ascend. At this point you can easily ID the pillar and 5.7 ledgy start to the climb.

Mainly, find the trough/chimney left side of sandy slope and then ascend whatever is most direct and easiest to base of route. It wasn't that difficult to figure out. It just takes a little while.

Descent: Go off summit weaving through manzanita tunnels directly to saddle behind sentinel. Descend lowest point of saddle to the left/East into gully. Hang skiers right down the gully weaving through trees midway then leave trees back into gully when obvious and slowly trend to middle of gully as you near the creek.

At creek find easiest way to cross then hang left towards valley floor. At this point you will be on a series of slabs. Weave down the slabs staying about dead center between both creeks. Don't be swayed by easy looking options far left or right, they lead to bullshit. You are aiming for a patch of trees in the middle of the slabs. Eventually do a 20ft ish 4th down climb then go down and skiers left on obvious dirt trail which goes behind a large tree then to a 3rd class dirty trough. Once down the trough the route finding trickery is mostly over. Head down and skiers left on whatever is easiest eventually trending around the face of the Sentinel and meeting back up with the approach climbers trail.

There are numerous ways to descend, but this is the fastest/easiest way I've found.

Go get it! It's a wonderful free climb. Jun 14, 2017