Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jean DeLataillade & Luke Laeser
Page Views: 823 total · 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


5 Opinions

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Description

A powerful start from underclings yields a steep unrelenting face. After the third bolt, pull a small roof, probably the red point crux. After this the difficulties end, and unfortunately so does the good rock. Head up on increasing chossy rock, mantle onto a wet moldy ledge and traverse left to anchors shared with Moat Jump.

Might be best to use the anchors for Couch Warrior and skip the final two bolts of climbing.

Location

On the far right side of the Wall. Starts between Moat Pump and Couch Warrior.

Protection

8 Bolts to shared Anchors with Moat Jump.

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Fun route that required minimal cleaning, compared to the the bangfests, that we hammered on for hours... Also one of the few that Jean and I bolted and rp'd in a day. Sep 2, 2010
George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12
I had to start a bit to the left, using the "Moat Pump" underclings. This avoids the incredibly bouldery direct start under the bolt line, for which I just wasn't seeing a mid-5.12 sequence.

I would not want to do this one without stickclipping the 1st (or 2nd) bolt. It's harder and farther to the 1st bolt more than any other climb at the Dungeon. Oct 7, 2013