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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 75 ft
FA: Jean DeLataillade & Luke Laeser
Page Views: 782 total, 7/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Description

A powerful start from underclings yields a steep unrelenting face. After the third bolt, pull a small roof, probably the red point crux. After this the difficulties end, and unfortunately so does the good rock. Head up on increasing chossy rock, mantle onto a wet moldy ledge and traverse left to anchors shared with Moat Jump.

Might be best to use the anchors for Couch Warrior and skip the final two bolts of climbing.

Location

On the far right side of the Wall. Starts between Moat Pump and Couch Warrior.

Protection

8 Bolts to shared Anchors with Moat Jump.

Photos

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George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.12
George Perkins   The Dungeon, NM
  5.12
I had to start a bit to the left, using the "Moat Pump" underclings. This avoids the incredibly bouldery direct start under the bolt line, for which I just wasn't seeing a mid-5.12 sequence.

I would not want to do this one without stickclipping the 1st (or 2nd) bolt. It's harder and farther to the 1st bolt more than any other climb at the Dungeon. Oct 7, 2013
Fun route that required minimal cleaning, compared to the the bangfests, that we hammered on for hours... Also one of the few that Jean and I bolted and rp'd in a day. Sep 2, 2010