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Routes in Desperado Wall

Black Slabbeth T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brain Damage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breaking The Law T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Granite Man T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hocus Focus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Slabbeth, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into The Void T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jail Break T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metal Meltdown T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reckless Criminal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Return Of Grunge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ride The Lightning T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Slabbra Cadabbra T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticks & Stones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Tim Snyder
Page Views: 702 total, 6/month
Shared By: nbrown on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

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Description

The name was inspired from yet another Black Sabbath tune, not to mention the magical moves one has to make at times on this route.

P-1 Either climb straight up to first bolt, or traverse in from the left. Climb steep and excellent rock past 2 bolts to lower angeled terrain. Continue up wild steep slabbing, clipping bolts for pro, to the last section of the pitch that steepens up again. Climb on fantastic hold past a couple of more bolts and some small gear to the 2 bolt belay.

P-2 Climb the steep face above past 2 bolts (crux) and a few slopers to a fantastic jug at the 3rd bolt. Step out right and mantel up to the 4th bolt (exciting!). Move up and left past a good #1 camelot to another bolt in the bulge. Crank past this to easier terrain, protected with small cams, and one more bolt. At the roof, step left and climb straight up to the 2 bolt anchor at the ledge. Note: The rap from here is about 115' to the top of pitch 1.

Location

This is the the left line of bolts seen from the top of the gully right of "Reckless Criminal".

Protection

P-1 small TCU's, and small wires, possibly a pink tricam
P-2 light rack, up to a #1 camelot

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