Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Desperado Wall

Black Slabbeth T,S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Brain Damage T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Breaking The Law T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Granite Man T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Hocus Focus T 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Holy Slabbeth, The T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Into The Void T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Jail Break T,S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Metal Meltdown T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Reckless Criminal T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Return Of Grunge, The T 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Ride The Lightning T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Slabbath Bloody Slabbath T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Slabbra Cadabbra T,S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Sticks & Stones T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c
Thunderstruck T,S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, Sport, 200 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Nathan Brown, Tim Snyder, Petey Allen
Page Views: 1,332 total, 12/month
Shared By: nbrown on Aug 18, 2008
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Temporarily closed. Details

Description

The cruxes are isolated and well protected, making this a worthwhile route to try to onsight. Locate the left line of bolts at the very top of the tree ledge. They are nearly invisible due to a tan colored paint. P-1 Climb the short section of patina type edges to a bolt and a difficult mantel. Clip another bolt and make a thin and reachy move to good holds that lead to a good stance. Move right and up to a an obvious large pocket, and clip the 3rd bolt. Make more hard moves past this to the 4th bolt. Continue up past another bolt to a great stance and gear. Move right (#1 camelot here)and up to the last bolt. Make more thin moves past this to bulgy horizontals (small cams here), and finally a nice belay ledge at 100'. P-2 Climb up and diagonally right to the top (5.7).

Location

On the far left side of the Desperado wall. It is up the hill from "Reckless Criminal". Look for the nearly invisible tan colored bolt hangers.

Protection

light rack of cams up to #1 camelot

Photos

nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Yes Eddie that's correct. He always seems to remain calm even when I'm completely scared out of my wits. Mar 31, 2010
Edward Medina
Ridgway, CO
Edward Medina   Ridgway, CO  
Been racking my brain to figure out who this Petey Allen is. I think I figured it out. Is he that short dude with really heavy facial hair? Tends to drool? Feb 22, 2010
nbrown
western NC
 
nbrown   western NC
 
Thanks Tim. Got it. Aug 19, 2008