At some point in time, Dan Foster and I made it a mission to climb any unknown route with tatty anchors and install a modern anchor. It was a surprising number of routes and this line had some of the last tat to go. The first 75' of this route was done by Darren Singer in the early 90’s and ended at a webbing anchor with old Chouinard Curved Nuts. After onsighting to this anchor and exhausting crucial pieces of my rack, I lowered off staring at the top 40’ of steep terrain. After filling Dan in on the prospects, he casually flashed the route and then punched it through the final 40’ of overhanging finger splitter onsight. An anchor was placed, and a cross generational route was born. All this created one of the longest pitches on the right side, as well as, one of the most classic 5.11, all natural gear lines at the crag. It is a glorious haul with a lot of crisp, steep jamming.
Just left of No Feelings, A little ways right of Smiling Jay in a section of the cliff line known as The Hall of Giants.
70M rope. Anchors are above the last ledge way up out of sight while you are climbing.
Triples from #0 Metolious TCU to #1 Camalot, perhaps bulking up on .5 and .75’s for the onsight. A fine selection of medium wires would find homes.
Spokane, WA
Bishop, CA
the road
Flagstaff, AZ
Flagstaff
Medium nuts would protect the final 40ft very well, but it's pretty pumpy to place. I elected for cams and felt fine with that.
Amazing, amazing route. Great route for fitness. No real choss on this one. Nov 3, 2021