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Routes in Upper Blair Boulder Problems

Barn Sour T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Behind Blue Eyes T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Finnigan's Ladder S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Jay's Got Wood 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3 6A
Jordan's Seam V3 6A
Relocation Roof, The 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a V3-4 6A+
Short 5.9 BP Crack 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4-
Tall 5.9 BP 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a V0- 4-
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: Tom Rangitsch & Jessie Stover, 1993
Page Views: 80 total · 1/month
Shared By: Squatting Bear on Aug 16, 2008
Admins: Mike Snyder, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Dirt roads reopened as of June 2014 Details

Description

Tom can give this route its real name. The name I gave it came from the sandbagging I got. I was under the impression that the route was around 5.10, and I wanted a warm-up the morning I did it. Right off the bat it's in your face. Start on good holds and decipher the moves necessary to establish your feet on those holds. Follow the intrusion to the top. 5.10...really!? After the distinct crux at the bottom, the rest of the climb decreases in difficulty and is really enjoyable.

Location

Just to the left of Behind Blue Eyes, on the same rock.

Protection

4 bolts (I think) and take two for the anchor: there are two bolts as an anchor at the top. They may even have rings in them, but my partner walked off, easily and quickly, down the backside of the formation.

Photos

I think you could take the bite out of the crux by using the aspen next to the route. Aug 16, 2008
This climb is called Finnigan's Ladder. I did it with Jessie Stover back in 1993. I think it's a dumb name, but Jessie really wanted it to be called that. It's a song by Firehose or something.
I also talked to Rob Kelman shortly after the first ascent. He claimed that he and another guy had done it without any bolts. I find that hard to believe, but whatever.
Justin- why do they call you Squatting Bear? Oct 4, 2008
BretWith1T
Laramie, Wyoming
BretWith1T   Laramie, Wyoming
Bob took me to Blue Eyes in '92, and we checked this out. Finally figured out the opening moves and got on, but only after about a gazillion tries and I was gassed. Still, I looked it over and wouldn't have continued without drilling. Ironically, was going to name it "The Raisen's Edge", obviously another musical entendre from the era. May 5, 2011

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