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Routes in Sleeping Giant

Bluebird Chimney T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Discovery T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Memorable Misery T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b A0
Type: Trad, Aid, 450 ft, 4 pitches, Grade III
FA: Aaron Bourdon & Matt Swanson
Page Views: 999 total, 9/month
Shared By: Aaron Bourdon on Aug 15, 2008
Admins: Dave Rone

You & This Route


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Do not use the old Chimney Trail. Details

Description

FYI: I am a sport climber and not good at estimating traditional grades on loose rock.

Reference Picture:
Memorable Misery Pitches 2, 3, 4, 5

Pitch 1) 5.5 Loose slate like rock makes the climbing feel more difficult. Protection is there but be careful of the loose rock.
Pitch 2) 5.7 A corner crack leads to face/crack moves. As the climbing becomes more vertical the loose rock became smaller pieces (fracturing actually made great positive edges.) I believe this pitch would clean up much better than pitch 1 for enjoyable climbing. The protection seemed quite solid.
Pitch 3) 5.7 These were our 3rd and 4th pitches but they can easily be connected.
Pitch 4) 5.7 A0, We really wanted to make this a free ascent but the last pitch defeated us. Probably would be a 5.9 climb on clean rock. This pitch was scary (all the previous loose rock and lichen compromising smears affected our nerves) but has the potential to make this climb classic for the area. We used a right crack system to get to a slope allowing us to traverse left into a hand crack. The hand crack (technical crux) leads a larger crack (psychological crux.)

This climb reminded me slightly of Whitney-Gilman, Franconia Notch. However it should not be climbed with parties above you until the rock can be confirmed as safe from significant rock fall.

After pitches 1 & 2 the rock becomes more solid but loose rock is still abundant. If the slate like rock of pitches 1 & 2 could hold bolts and stay clean there would be potential for some more difficult, very interesting looking variations/new routes.

Maybe next season we will get a chance to return to clean this line and put up another route. At the same time,
I think it would be a good idea to place some bolt anchors so climbers can rappel off the climb. (this would clean up the route, prevent the last belay station from being in a fire ant mecca, make the descent easier, and would prevent erosion of the chimney descent.

Location

Reference Picture: Overview Picture 1

Memorable Misery = Left (Alternate colors red & green between pitches)
Recommend that it is done in four pitches. We did it in five pitches due to route finding. See next picture.
Discovery = Middle (Pink)
Chimney = Original Descent (Orange, Closed due to erosion/rockfall danger)

Protection

Standard Rack (up to #5 Camalot) Extra mid range nuts and hexs can really zip it up.

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