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Routes in Castle Rock Proper

Access Route T,TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Chimney T,TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Chock Stone T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Face TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Farewell to Arms T,TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
South Face Center TR 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: TR, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,028 total, 9/month
Shared By: Leo Paik on Aug 15, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Trails are closed from sunset to 6:00 am. Details

Description

This is an old moderate problem which has eroded into a more challenging roof move.

Ascend a slab to the middle of the lower roof. Fight through this problem with a variety of mantle, heel hook, and funky friction. Apparently, a hold broke off in the last decade and made it a tricky problem. It is particularly challenging for short kids.

For a moderate variation (~5.7), you can skirt the first roof on the left, then ascend easier terrain above to the anchor.

Location

Climb up the middle of the south face.

Protection

Use long slings to anchor off the pole up top. Once, there was a chockstone up top to use, but now it seems like the pole is all that remains. There is a pocket that may catch your eye just below the top, but a sideways force yanks it right out.

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