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Exilis Dihedral

5.9, Trad, Sport, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.2 from 20 votes
FA: Matthew Fienup & Romain Wacziarg (August 2008)
California > Central Coast > Hwy 33/Ojai > Derrydale Cliff
Warning Access Issue: Hwy 33 Road Closure DetailsDrop down

Description

Exilis Dihedral climbs the most striking feature on the cliff--a large, left-facing dihedral in the center of the formation.

Delicate slab climbing past three bolts (crux) leads to the dihedral. Laybacking and stemming deposits you at the top of the dihedral on a large ledge. A few easy fifth-class moves take you over the final bulge to a rap anchor on a spacious ledge.

Location

The dihedral is located almost in the dead-center of the wall. Scramble up the loose hillside directly below the dihedral to access the start.

Protection

Four bolts (all 1/2" sleeve bolts), gear from a #0 TCU up to 2-1/2"

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Marisa Fienup nears the top of the dihedral.  Exilis Dihedral, Derrydale Cliff.
[Hide Photo] Marisa Fienup nears the top of the dihedral. Exilis Dihedral, Derrydale Cliff.
Topo for Exilis Dihedral (5.9) at Derrydale Crag.
[Hide Photo] Topo for Exilis Dihedral (5.9) at Derrydale Crag.
Marisa Fienup climbs Exilis Dihedral, at Derrydale Cliff.
[Hide Photo] Marisa Fienup climbs Exilis Dihedral, at Derrydale Cliff.
Matthew Fienup on the FA of Exilis Dihedral at Derrydale Cliff.
[Hide Photo] Matthew Fienup on the FA of Exilis Dihedral at Derrydale Cliff.
This thing is a waterfall for a few days after a good rain. That's why this route has some of the best quality rock on the entire cliff
[Hide Photo] This thing is a waterfall for a few days after a good rain. That's why this route has some of the best quality rock on the entire cliff
Courtland King leading Exilis Dihedral
[Hide Photo] Courtland King leading Exilis Dihedral
Gloria G. of LA exiting the dihedral of Exilis Dihedral
[Hide Photo] Gloria G. of LA exiting the dihedral of Exilis Dihedral
Gloria G. of LA in the crux of Exilis Dihedral
[Hide Photo] Gloria G. of LA in the crux of Exilis Dihedral
Amparo Chaney of Ventura in the crux of Exilis Dihedral
[Hide Photo] Amparo Chaney of Ventura in the crux of Exilis Dihedral
Amparo Chaney of Ventura entering the crux of Exilis Dihedral
[Hide Photo] Amparo Chaney of Ventura entering the crux of Exilis Dihedral
Placing bolts on Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.
[Hide Photo] Placing bolts on Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.
Second lead ascent of Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.
[Hide Photo] Second lead ascent of Exilis Dihedral, August 14, 2008.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
  5.9
Rob Chaney
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Climbed this on 4/23/2009 what a great route nice moves,crimpy slab, blancy, lye back, stemming and even a little mantelish. Fun!
I used a BD #10 stopper at the bottom of the crack and A OP #2 link cam in the middle of the crack. Apr 24, 2009
Matthew Fienup
Santa Rosa Valley, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] It had been a couple of years since I last got on this route, when I climbed it on Saturday. I was really surprised how great this route is! The slab section at the bottom is super clean with great edging. The dihedral is easier than the slab but very aesthetic--we just don't get many features like this on the Central Coast.

I have bumped this route up to one of a handful of favorites on the Central Coast. Jun 25, 2017
Joe Garibay
Ventura, Ca
 
[Hide Comment] I really enjoyed this as well. However, if I remember correctly, there are more than 4 bolts. Don't take my word on it though. I felt disappointed with how many bolts I clipped through the dihedral. Expecting it to be all trad up there, I did place some gear, but don't remember it being all that important. Again, don't take my word for beta, I could be remember things differently. I need to give it another go because it is a fun climb. Jun 29, 2017
Jeff Luton
It's complicated
 
[Hide Comment] Ran up this today. Used 4 QD’s, one alpine on a bolt and an alpine on a #1 camalot. Very well protected and a very good line on not so good rock. That said, if you want something to run some laps on with a bit of variety, this is a good one Nov 6, 2018
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] 5 bolts. none needed extra long extension really. solid medium stopper as mentioned at start of the mostly flared dihedral crack. managed a half-decent blue Alien partway up that. offset cams prob better Jan 8, 2021
Sean
Oak Park, CA
[Hide Comment] solid yel/grn offset Alien in flaring dihedral. bigger works too. a companion bolt has sprouted next to last lead bolt, to create a lower anchor on lip of finishing terrace roof. prob the better place to install rap anchor in first place, as the last bit to get atop terrace is trivial with lots of loose rocks, and would have the weighed strands abrading on roof lip. not equipped for rap tho. last person would still need to climb up over terrace roof to the higher original bolted rap anchor in order to rap down Feb 4, 2021
Sofa King Watt
Left side of the continent/…
 
[Hide Comment] Sean is right. This IS the better spot for the anchor, and IT has been moved here to the lip of the overhang and now has mussy hooks! No need to go to the original anchor on the loose rock ledge. Thank you mussy hook fairy! Aug 6, 2022
Michael Smalley
Santa Clarita, CA
  5.9
[Hide Comment] Fun climbing. The "new" anchor spot is awesome! Gear was not quite as trivial in the crack as I though it would be while looking up at it from the base of the climb. There are definitely good placements to be found, but for the most part, the flaring crack was less than inspiring for protection. Jun 13, 2024