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Routes in Central Area

38 Special S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Amazing Grace S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Dark Special S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Dexter Delight T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Jack the Ripper S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Jumping Jack Flash S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Light Special T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Malcolm's Route T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Peyote Pump T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Sleeper S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Trad
FA: Malcolm Jolly and Dick Richardson
Page Views: 750 total · 7/month
Shared By: urs on Aug 14, 2008
Admins: Aron Quiter, Lurker, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Open, with restrictions: private property Details

Description

Malcolm route is a good route to warm up on and get a feel for the area. A fun start with little pro (optional thin piece) leads to a well protected fun slab route. Even though the route isn't a super classic it is probally climbed more than any other route.

Location

From Gasoline alley you turn a corner And there is a giant slab. start at the very edge of the right arete and traverse left into the face. The bolts just to the right are sleeper 5.10c.

Protection

You can do these with only 2 quickdraws and some stuff for the anchor if you don't mind having a pretty big run out. Otherwise bring some small stuff for the bottom part.

Photos

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There have been modern (4/19/14) bolts retrofitted to this route. There are modern 3/8ths in anchors added as well. Now you need 3 quickdraws and some thin nuts/cams in between for this route. It's run out to modern standards but to Toulumne standards is acceptable. The chain and links at the top are OK too. Apr 20, 2014